THE VIRGINIAN-PILOT
Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: Sunday, August 27, 1995 TAG: 9508240253
SECTION: CAROLINA COAST PAGE: 16 EDITION: FINAL
TYPE: Restaurant Review
SOURCE: BY JENNIFER CHRISTMAN, STAFF WRITER
DATELINE: NAGS HEAD LENGTH: Long : 111 lines
DURING THESE trying times when rampant bureaucracy, discrimination and government scandal threaten the American Dream, it's comforting we still can cling to one last vestige of democracy:
Buffet restaurants.
Now, I am no political theorist. But as a friend and I dined at George's Junction, it seemed clear to me that if ever there was a symbol of this country's ideals, buffets are right up there with the flag and ``The Brady Bunch.''
Talk about an equal playing field. Everyone pays the same amount, starts with the same-sized plates and eats until satisfaction. The restaurants also foster self-governance - The Man can exert no portion-control power over buffets.
And they're fun, conducive to the pursuit of hapiness [happiness] in every way.
George's Junction is no exception.
If you've ever cruised through Milepost 11 on the beach road with your eyes open, there is simply no way you could miss the Junction in all its white-and-gold, Taj Mahal-esque loveliness. From the outside, the restaurant, complete with domes, looks more like a mosque with a windwill than a restaurant.
With a name like George's Junction, I had visions of tacky swinging saloon doors, mounted animal carcasses and women named Shirley Lou wearing beads and tutus lounging atop a piano. But the interior - simple with hanging plants, flowered tablecloths, nautical paintings and a few Southwest accents - was downright tasteful. Heck, they even had cloth napkins.
The atmosphere is country, plain and simple. Country music spills from speakers. The Junction even offers line-dancing lessons and contests.
Beachgoers of the 1970s and 1980s might remember the Junction as A Restaurant by George, which closed in 1989 and sat fallow until owners Mike Kelly and Frank Gajar re-opened it this June.
You might ask, who is George? Well, once upon a time, the name referred to George Crocker, who owned A Restaurant by George until 1985. The restaurant stayed in business four years after he sold it. And the name just stuck.
But as every buffet enthusiast knows, it's not the atmosphere or history that matters. It's the food.
Dave Fitton, general manager of George's Junction, called the cuisine ``as upscale as buffets get.''
I hate to employ an abused restaurant cliche, but the Junction truly has something for everyone - veggies, meat, seafood, bread, soup, Italian, dessert. The works.
The Junction's spread is chock-full of choices and lines the walls of its very own large room that is separate from the two dining rooms.
``We have a tremendous variety,'' Fitton said. ``I don't like seafood, but I could eat here every day.''
Well, I love seafood, so I was completely in my element. While grooving to the country music in the background, I loaded my first plate with steamed clams, seafood au gratin and deviled crab. I added some greens from the standard, but fresh, salad bar.
The clams were cooked just the way I like them. Not too gummy or mushy. And they tasted happily of salt water, making me nostalgic for a swim in the ocean.
The seafood au gratin - puffy scallops mixed with shrimp in a creamy sauce - was my favorite, and was my first stop on my second buffet trip. The deviled crab was a little light on crab and heavy on filler to my Maryland tastebuds.
My friend piled his plate with the juicy baked chicken, baked beans and tuna barbecue - his favorite, which he billed as ``tasty - tangy enough, but you could still taste the tuna.''
We were both pleased with our mounds of the lightly buttered, real mashed potatoes whipped to perfect texture.
After one plate, my annoying health-freak friend declared he was done.
I would have none of that. I was full too, but insisted it was only good buffet etiquette to endure.
Dessert was not as memorable. I tried a slice of cake with chocolate chips and a sugary glaze on it. It tasted good, but seemed a little stale. My friend's cake topped with fruit was the same.
But we were extra impressed with the service. Chad, our very friendly and helpful waiter, never left us parched and craving more iced tea. And he was incredibly polite - he even thanked me when he refilled my glass one of at least five times.
Now that's the American way. MEMO: GEORGE'S JUNCTION
Where: Milepost 11 on the beach road.
Cost: Buffet costs $17.95 for adults, $6.95 for children 10 and under
and free for kids 3 and under.
Hours: Buffet is served from 4 p.m. until 9:30 p.m. The lounge is
open from 4 p.m. until about 2 a.m.
Phone: 441-0606.
Reservations: Required for parties of 12 or more.
Features: Full buffet including soup, seafood, beef, chicken, ham,
vegetarian offerings, side dishes, salad bar and dessert bar. There is
also a small sit-down menu.
Beverages: Soft drinks, mixed drinks, import and domestic beer, wine
tea, coffee, milk, juice.
Entertainment: Nightly country music by Dixie 105.7 and live country
bands on Fridays and Saturdays at 10 p.m. Line dancing contest on
Wednesdays at 10 p.m. Line dancing lessons on Thursdays at 8:30 p.m.
Smoking: A smoking section is available. Smoking is permitted in the
lounge.
Payment: MasterCard, Visa, personal checks.
Handicapped accessible: yes. ILLUSTRATION: Staff photo by VICKI CRONIS
It's hard to miss George's Junction restaurant with its
white-and-gold, Taj Mahal-esque loveliness as you drive on N.C.
Route 12.
by CNB