The Virginian-Pilot
                             THE VIRGINIAN-PILOT 
              Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc.

DATE: Thursday, August 31, 1995              TAG: 9508300054
SECTION: FLAVOR                   PAGE: F6   EDITION: FINAL 
COLUMN: A LA CARTE 
SOURCE: Donna Reiss 
                                             LENGTH: Short :   50 lines

EATERIES LIGHTEN FARE FOR SUMMER'S END

FOR LATE summer dining, the Kitchen at Powhatan Plantation has a new menu.

Executive chef Meredith Nicolls, who specializes in American foods with a Virginia emphasis, occasionally adds an international angle.

Temptations include Oriental tuna with spicy peanut sauce, and pork chop with wild blueberry sauce and plantation cornbread.

Call (804) 220-1200 to reserve a table at this charming reproduction of a Colonial tavern at 3601 Ironbound Road in Williamsburg.

Also lightening up for the dog days of summer is the Bistro at Le Chambord, which has gone another shade of casual with bright green polo shirts for the wait staff. A shorter but still notable menu is overseen by chef Alvin Williams.

In Norfolk, the Dumbwaiter's chef-owner, Sydney Meers, may well be lightest of all: Some of his summer ads feature a shirtless Syd with logo tattoo and laurel leaf halo. His brow may be garnished with bay but his summer meals are garnished with pesto and local tomatoes. Trellis to the top

Nation's Restaurant News has inducted Williamsburg's Trellis Cafe, Restaurant and Grill into its 1995 Fine Dining Hall of Fame.

Along with winners from nine other American restaurants, Trellis owners John Curtis and Marcel Desaulniers recently attended the awards ceremony in Chicago.

The trade magazine's May 24 issue included two pages on the Trellis. One photograph shows Desaulniers, who also is executive chef, with a chocolate dessert; another photo is from the familiar brick shopping area on the edge of Colonial Williamsburg.

The Trellis, on Duke of Gloucester Street at Merchants Square, was among the first local restaurants to give Southern cooking a contemporary spin. For reservations, call (804) 229-8610. MEMO: Send restaurant news, along with your name and a daytime phone number,

to a la carte, c/o Flavor, The Virginian-Pilot and The Ledger-Star, 150

W. Brambleton Ave., Norfolk, Va. 23510, or send e-mail to

dreiss(AT)infi.net.

by CNB