THE VIRGINIAN-PILOT
Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: Sunday, September 10, 1995 TAG: 9509070251
SECTION: CAROLINA COAST PAGE: 16 EDITION: FINAL
TYPE: Restaurant Review
SOURCE: BY JEWEL BOND
DATELINE: MANTEO LENGTH: Medium: 94 lines
THE ONLY THING more impressive than the atmosphere at the Weeping Radish Restaurant is the menu.
The atmosphere is lively and fun. And the menu gives all the information you will ever need to know about this establishment.
For instance: The restaurant takes its name from the German radish that is served with beer in Bavarian restaurants. A light salt coating draws moisture from the radish and gives it the appearance of ``weeping.''
The menu also explains that the Weeping Radish doubles as a brewery, one of the few in America making beer according to the German ``Purity Law.''
Passed in 1516, the law states that only four natural ingredients can be used in the brewing of beer: water, hops, malt and yeast. The Weeping Radish complies in its three staple beers, which are not filtered.
A glass-lined wall along the entrance reveals large vats of fermenting beer, with mounds of brown foam waiting to spill over the rim.
Owner Uli Bennewitz says he was surprised in 1988 when the National Restaurant Association called to inform him the Weeping Radish was the oldest restaurant and brewery in the country. ``That was wild for little Manteo,'' Bennewitz said.
A German polka welcomed my husband and me as we met friends there for dinner recently. The hostess led us to a table for four in the center of a spacious dining room. Our waiter, Brad, of German descent, greeted us and provided table service that was friendly, quick and efficient.
A starter, the potato pancake, was pleasing without being filling. A tasty blend of potatoes and onions, seasoned with nutmeg, herbs and spices and topped with a sweet applesauce ($3.50), the appetizer was enjoyed by all.
For entrees, three of our group would have nothing but German dishes; our one holdout preferred American. The menu offers three American favorites: seafood lasagna, prime rib and our companion's choice of grilled chicken breast ($9.95). Those with a taste for something plainer would be satisfied with this dish, she commented.
Plates were full with generous servings. A Weeping Radish sampler ($15.95) featured sauteed pork loin, or Jagerschnitzel; German pot roast, or Sauerbraten; roasted pork loin, or Schweinebraten; and Bauernwurst, a spicy sausage made with pork and beef.
An order of Jagerschnitzel ($12.95), served with a creamy sauce of mushrooms and onions, drew compliments from all who sampled a bite.
Side orders for these entrees were boiled red potatoes, homemade spatzle and red cabbage. The spatzel held a curiosity for me, and I probably would order it again although it looked and tasted like little dough pellets. Brad said some folks like to order a sausage sauce for the spatzle. That would make it more like a dumpling.
The Wurst platter ($10.95), ordered by the only member of our party of German descent, combined three kinds of German sausages and came with homemade sauerkraut. I sampled the sausages and the sauerkraut and thought they were all delicious.
By dessert time, it's easy to be full, but it's worth saving room for one of five standard desserts. We chose four: cheesecake, apple strudel, lime pie and sachertorte, a chocolate layer cake. Each was quite tasty. The lime pie was not quite as rich as the other three, and maybe a more sensible choice.
The German flags, artifacts and decorations are reminiscent of Bavarian country inns. Photographs throughout the dining room are actually family, friends and neighbors of the owner.
An outside garden area offers visitors to the area a chance to sip a cold beer or soft drink and munch on fast food and snacks from the Gingerbread House, or just relax while the children use the playground nearby.
The pub is solidly German. This is definitely the place to come for the great German sausages, sandwiches and beer while enjoying some time with friends.
All in all, the only thing I can think of that is missing is a good crusty loaf of homemade German bread.
Wunderbar! ILLUSTRATION: Staff photo by DREW C. WILSON
[photo of the restaurant]
Graphic
THE WEEPING RADISH
Where: U.S. 64 in Manteo.
Hours: Restaurant open from 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. and 5 to 9 p.m.
seven days a week. The pub is open 11:30 a.m. until 10 or 11 p.m.
Phone: 473-1157.
Reservations: Required for seven or more.
Features: German specialties. Entree prices range from $12.95 to
$15.95. Three American entrees are priced $9.95 to $11.95.
Beverages: German and American wines, champagne, beer brewed on
site, soft drinks, coffee, tea.
Smoking: Smoking and non-smoking sections available.
Payment: MasterCard, Visa, Discover and local checks.
Handicapped Accessible: Yes.
by CNB