The Virginian-Pilot
                             THE VIRGINIAN-PILOT 
              Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc.

DATE: Thursday, September 14, 1995           TAG: 9509130016
SECTION: FLAVOR                   PAGE: F3   EDITION: FINAL 
COLUMN: A La Carte 
SOURCE: Donna Reiss 
                                             LENGTH: Medium:   60 lines

A SPICED-UP SAGE'S ON PLEASURE HOUSE ROAD

THE PLEASURES of Pleasure House Road are greater now that Sage's spices up the street where the Lucky Star shines and the Anchor Inn is anchored.

Contemporary-classical casual elegance sets the mood for Sage's. Creamy, poufed Roman shades match the table skirts, etched glass lets light shine through the room dividers, and ersatz Rennaissance murals add an anachronistic edge.

Upstairs and down, this smoke-free bistro serves eclectic cuisine new American-style. Servers in logo polos bring forth artichokes stuffed with brie, eggplant stuffed with goat cheese, sliced duck with sweet cabbage and wild mushrooms, osso bucco with red wine and lentils, and bistro favorites like roasted chicken, grilled leg of lamb and rib-eye steak.

Patrick Galiardi is the man on the range; he has studied cooking at Johnson & Wales University and at a variety of local restaurant kitchens. His partner and the restaurant's manager, Tobin Paulk, proudly shows off the decor created by Kria Krumm and Darrell Long of Collaborative Conceptions.

Savor Sage's at 1658 Pleasure House Road in Virginia Beach; call 460-1691.

Watts up at Bella Pasta?

When David Watts and wife Pam bought Bella Pasta in 1992, they maintained the name and brought to the menu influences from David's Neapolitan mother.

But he always added non-Italian touches derived from his New England Culinary Institute training and his experience in southern restaurants.

Now, Watts is spotlighting that diversity with a name change, a new menu and a new approach. Cafe David, 1423 N. Great Neck Road in Virginia Beach, goes west with seafood enchilada, south with tuna Havana, and beside the bayou with jambalaya. Fans of Watts' pastas will find half a dozen on the menu - and he'll probably whip up one of his wonderful Alfredos if you ask nicely.

Other changes are Champagne brunches on Sundays, cooking demonstrations with a four-course dinner on some Mondays, and wine dinners.

At 7 p.m. Monday, a five-course wine dinner will feature a talk by John Blazon of Robins Cellars. The Oct. 23 cooking class will have a French flavor to follow the Wattses' trip to Bordeaux. Call 496-3333 for more information.

Wine trio

Louisa and Frank Spapen, co-owners of Le Chambord in Virginia Beach, continue their fall wine dinners.

On Thursday Oct. 19 and Nov. 16, the contemporary-continental restaurant will pair five courses with five wines for $55.

Debi Atkins, consultant for local distributor Broudy Kantor, will discuss the vintages. For information and reservations, call 498-1234. The restaurant is at 324 N. Great Neck Road.

Wine with dinner

At Bistro! in Norfolk, wine dinners are monthly events. A group of regulars take most of the tables, but occasionally seats are available.

In May and August, I joined the group for some of Todd Jurich's creative dishes matched with California wines. For information, call 622-3210. The restaurant is at 210 York St. by CNB