THE VIRGINIAN-PILOT
Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: Thursday, September 28, 1995 TAG: 9509260109
SECTION: NORFOLK COMPASS PAGE: 1E EDITION: FINAL
COLUMN: On the Town
TYPE: Restaurant Review
SOURCE: Sam Martinette
LENGTH: Medium: 79 lines
The best tamale in town, bar none, may be found at Azteca Mexican Restaurante, the new eatery on Little Creek Road located in what was for years known as Mama Lina's.
Don't let the Roman statuary out front fool you, the food inside is pure south of the border. And there's lots of it.
The interiors of the two restaurants are as different as night and day. Where Mama Lina's was dark, although cheerful, Azteca is light, reflecting the sun-washed origins of its food, with peach-colored booths along the upper section, white walls and a whitewashed lattice enclosing the main floor of the dining room. A mural portrays a romantic Aztecan legend of a warrior and his lost love.
The four partners - the Ornelas brothers, Gustavo, Felipe and Alberto, who is in the kitchen of the new restaurant, and their friend Cesar Ledezma - hail from the state of Jalisco in Mexico, and came to Little Creek Road by way of Hilltop in Virginia Beach, where they operate another Azteca.
Ledezma, who manages Azteca with the help of his wife Josephina, pointed out that although the four partners operate two restaurants, they aren't a chain operation.
``We are family owned and operated,'' he explained. ``There are only two guys who work here that are not related to us.''
The traffic count on Little Creek Road and little competition in the area brought them to Norfolk. Three months of remodeling followed, and Ledezma said plans call for a patio where the Roman nobles now stand.
``But they are so heavy, we cannot move them,'' he said.
There are more than 100 items on the Azteca menu, from tacos, burritos and enchiladas a la carte to combination dinners such as two enchiladas, a taco, rice or beans ($5.50); a burrito, enchilada, chile rellano and refried beans ($6); an enchilada, tamale, rice and beans ($5.50); or a chalupa, burrito and a tamale ($6).
Some examples of the a la carte prices are a potato taco ($1) or beef taco ($1.60); a chicken and cheese quesadilla ($2); a beef and bean burrito ($2.80); and a beef or cheese enchilada ($1.60, three for $4.50). Side orders of rice or beans are $1.25, and a handmade tamale stuffed with shredded beef and topped with beans is $1.80.
Meat and poultry dishes include beef or chicken fajitas ($7.50), or Texas fajitas (beef, chicken and shrimp cooked with onions, tomatoes and bell peppers, beans and cheese, guacamole salad with sour cream, corn or flour tortillas - $9); steak Azteca (a char-broiled T-bone topped with bell peppers, onions, tomato and mushroom and served with rice, beans and tortillas ($10); La Tapatia (chunks of fried pork with a fried tomato sauce, rice, beans and tortillas ($7); and Filete Empanisado (a breaded catfish fillet fried and served with rice and a salad ($7); and many more.
I chose the Super Azteca from the long list of specialty dishes. An excellent way to sample the fare, it consists of a burrito, an enchilada, a chalupa, a chile rellano, a taco and is served with rice and beans ($8.50). The dinner was so large that it came on two platters. No wonder the waiter smiled when I ordered a tamale on the side. Mi amiga, Julie, opted for the pollo azado - seasoned, grilled chicken breast fillets as tender as a veal cutlet) served over rice, with beans, tortillas and a salad - $7. Chips were served throughout the meal, with both red and white salsas for dipping.
Lunches include the ``Speedy Gonzalez'' (a taco and enchilada, rice or beans - $3.25); the ``Coyote Loco'' (an enchilada ranchera, mushroom quesadilla and rice $4.20); and a number of combination platters. There is a vegetarian section (a vegetable fajita for $7, for example), and a children's menu (an enchilada or taco, rice and beans - $2.50, or a Mexican hamburger with fries - $2.60, and more).
I was promised that the margaritas would be memorable when the ABC is in place, probably within the week. Azteca should be a winner. The service is friendly. The food good and in some cases very different from what is available locally, and it is served in large portions. ILLUSTRATION: Photo by SAM MARTINETTE
Cesar Ledezma is the manager of Azteca Mexican Restaurante.
by CNB