The Virginian-Pilot
                             THE VIRGINIAN-PILOT 
              Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc.

DATE: Thursday, September 28, 1995           TAG: 9509270032
SECTION: FLAVOR                   PAGE: F6   EDITION: FINAL 
COLUMN: Morsels 
SOURCE: Ruth Fantasia 
                                             LENGTH: Medium:   69 lines

HAVING A BALL AS A TASTER AT FEAST

THEY SERVED 15 hors d'oeuvres, three appetizers, three salads, three entrees and four desserts.

No, it wasn't the buffet bash at the country club. It was a tasting to decide what dinner will be at the 33rd annual Holly Ball.

Sometimes this job is so-o-o difficult.

About eight organizers and three media types plowed through lamb chops, sushi, potato pancakes and shrimp tempura at the Norfolk Waterside Marriott, where the ball will be Dec. 2.

Executive chef Edward Nowakowski and director of catering Denise Reynolds answered our questions as we sampled each dish and discussed its merits.

The decorated king salmon surrounded by sushi and sashimi would be stunning to look at, while giving some people a chance to try sushi for the first time. The potato pancakes tasted scrumptious but were too big to eat while standing. (We had visions of apple chutney and sour cream sliding down the fronts of our gowns.)

The salads were tasty but not quite Holly Ball style (sorry Chef Ed). Could we substitute spinach for lettuce in the one with the walnuts, add a few Granny Smith apples and top it with a warm cranberry viniagrette?

Sure, anything we wanted.

And while we're on salads, could you answer an etiquette question? Are you allowed to cut the greens with a knife or do you have to fold them with your fork?

``Only in America do they have that rule,'' chef Ed says. ``In Europe they eat with the knife and fork all through the meal.''

``We place a knife at the table for the salad course,'' Denise says. ``That rule is out of date.''

Hallelujah.

Filet Mignon Perigourdine and Chicken Florentine With Bordelaise and Morel Sauce (bigger meats hold heat better) accompanied by potato croquettes (a manly side dish) and petite vegetables (for the health-conscious) create the entree.

Chilled Zabaglione on Fruit Coulis (which alone is worth the price of a ball ticket) will be dessert. Since there's no chocolate in the zabaglione and chocolate is a tradition at the Holly Ball, chef Ed will prepare truffles, dipped strawberries and cordial cups to be served during the dance.

The appetizer must wait (we couldn't come to a consensus) but the wine selections were easy: a chardonnay and a merlot, both from Napa Valley vineyards.

If you want to partake of this scrumptious feast and contribute to the Children's Hospital of The King's Daughters at the same time, call the Norfolk City Union of the King's Daughters at 668-7098. Tickets are available at various levels of contribution.

Can't find it? Write us

Remember sweet mixed pickles with the cocktail onions, cauliflower and bits of red pepper? Or tart raspberries against creamy vanilla in a premium raspberry swirl ice cream?

You still want them, but they're not on grocery store shelves. Why not? Who knows?

But we'll find out. Tell us about products you remember and we'll try and track them down and write about them in a future column.

Send the name of the product, description and your daytime phone number to: Morsels, c/o Flavor, The Virginian-Pilot, 150 W. Brambleton Ave., Norfolk, Va. 23510. by CNB