THE VIRGINIAN-PILOT
Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: Thursday, October 12, 1995 TAG: 9510110077
SECTION: FLAVOR PAGE: F3 EDITION: FINAL
COLUMN: A La Carte
SOURCE: Donna Reiss
LENGTH: Medium: 85 lines
NO MORE sitting on the sidelines, says chef Monroe Duncan, whose 3-year-old Monroe's Restaurant closed its doors about two weeks ago.
Duncan promises he'll stir the crawfish etouffee in the open kitchen of the new Suddenly Last Summer, 313 Laskin Road in Virginia Beach, where California Cafe closed about a month ago.
Eric Grieve, who has worked with Duncan in a number of kitchens over the years, will assist. Tony Klementzos, also from Monroe's and Duncan's original Suddenly Last Summer, will run the front of the house for owner Rex Harrison.
For more information about this new regional American restaurant, call 422-5588.
Busy Bobbywood
How busy was Bobbywood?
So busy that diners without reservations had to wait half an hour or more.
So busy that the kitchen ran out of walnuts for the salads.
So busy that the servers ran out of clean silverware.
Longtime fans of chef-owner Bobby Huber's culinary creativity, we looked forward to trying his new restaurant at Wards Corner in Norfolk.
Because we prefer not to wait 30 minutes or more for a table, we headed for the stools at the chef's bar, where we could watch the action in Huber's carefully orchestrated open kitchen.
Here, the staff is serious. Wearing headsets for communication, they look high-tech. But they're old-fashioned in the best culinary sense, preparing everything to order. Grilled vegetables were cut just before hitting the fire; creme brulee was browned with a blow torch moments before being served. When a large party ordered a half-dozen steaks, Huber trimmed and sliced the beef.
Everything was excellent, from soups to salads to bistro roasted chicken made nouvelle with olives, capers and shallots slipped under the crispy skin.
Enjoy style and substance for lunch or dinner at Bobbywood, 7515 Granby St. Call 440-7515.
Wine with food
Recognizing that the best wine festivals also celebrate food, the annual Chesapeake Bay Wine Festival will include several public events highlighting the harmony of the two.
From 11 a.m. to 1 p.m. Sunday, the Town Point Club in Norfolk will be the setting for a brunch with Robert Kacher, popular wine expert and importer. On the menu: veal and foie gras pate, loin of venison tart, baby lamb, smoked sturgeon and Viennese pastries. Cost is $60 per person. From 2 to 5 p.m., brunch guests and others are invited to stroll to the nearby Norfolk Waterside Marriott for a tasting of more than 100 international wines (tickets are $20 in advance, $25 at the door).
The most elaborate event will be tonight. In the private dining room of the Williamsburg Winery will be an eight-course wine dinner prepared by chefs from Johnson & Wales University in Norfolk. A winery tour and music are included in the $200 ticket.
An invitation-only kickoff party Friday night at Mahi-Mah's in Virginia Beach will feature a half-dozen local chefs. Sponsored by Mahi-Mah's and Smithfield Foods to honor present and past ticketholders for the sold-out-in-advance wine auction, the event is organized by Chuck Sass, executive chef at the restaurant.
Proceeds from the events go toward Hampton Roads public television and radio stations. For reservations, call 889-9440.
Beer and benefit
Swig a Wild Boar or a Weeping Radish Oct. 19 at Hot Tuna's third annual beer tasting and benefit for the Surfrider Foundation.
The San Clemente, California-based organization raises funds to support shoreline preservation. A $20 ticket purchases five (12-ounce) beers or 10 (6-ounce) samples, and light hors d'oeuvres.
The Blend will entertain, beginning at 7 p.m. Call 481-2888 for more information. Hot Tuna is at 2817 Shore Drive in Virginia Beach.
Quick bite
The second wine dinner of Le Chambord's ``Triple Crown'' will be at 7 p.m. Oct. 19. Highlighting red wines, the $55, five-course dinner will include Chilean sea bass, venison chops and sweetbreads prepared by chef Alain Jacqmin. Call 498-1234 for reservations. MEMO: Send restaurant news, along with your name and a daytime phone number,
to a la carte, c/o Flavor, The Virginian-Pilot and The Ledger-Star, 150
W. Brambleton Ave., Norfolk, Va. 23510, or send e-mail to
dreiss(AT)infi.net.
by CNB