THE VIRGINIAN-PILOT
Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: Sunday, October 22, 1995 TAG: 9510190058
SECTION: FLAVOR PAGE: F1 EDITION: FINAL
TYPE: Restaurant review
SOURCE: By DEBRA GORDON, STAFF WRITER
LENGTH: Medium: 78 lines
A ROMANTIC dinner at Elliot's? Elliot's? The same place we're always ducking for a quick lunch or a fast salad before a movie at the Naro?
Yes, Elliot's.
With excellent service and food, a quiet corner table, and some soothing piano music pouring out of the overhead speakers, Elliott's transformed itself into a perfect location for a weekend date with the husband I'm used to just passing in the hall.
On this beautiful, cool evening in early October, the outside patio was nearly filled. We bypassed its al fresco delights for an inside location, against the glass walls that make this Colley Avenue in Norfolk landmark look like a lighted beacon in the night.
Our first surprise was the evening's specials. This wasn't what we'd expected from years of lunches at Elliot's. We started with the special appetizer, Conch Fritters ($4.25), which delivered what the description promised: tender, chewy conch meat encased in a spicy, crunchy deep-fried batter. It was served alongside a creamy remoulade sauce. Perfect.
We also ordered the Hot Crab and Artichoke Dip off the menu ($5.95). A miniature cast-iron skillet came filled with a piping hot, crusty portion of rich dip, accompanied by more than a dozen thin slices of French baguette. I could eat only half - any more would have meant the end of dinner.
Throughout our meal, our waiter provided the right amount of attention, without slipping over that line into obsequiousness. He didn't flinch when we asked to order our entrees after we'd finished eating our appetizer. And we never had to look long when we needed him.
All entrees came with a salad, which here is fairly basic - romaine lettuce, croutons, strips of carrot and red cabbage. The dressings, served alongside in paper cups, were typical restaurant quality - nothing outstanding but not disappointing, either.
I ordered a special, Roast Leg of Lamb ($11.25). A large portion of sliced lamb was served with a strong brown sauce, redolent of red wine and rosemary, alongside a heaping helping of luscious onion-and-garlic mashed potatoes.
Other specials included a Vegetarian Eggplant and Mushroom Pastitsio ($10.95), and Tuna Dijon ($13.95), fresh tuna steak coated in Dijon mustard and seasoned bread crumbs, sauteed and topped with caper butter.
My husband's Steak Maxwell - filet mignon topped with lump crabmeat and sauce bearnaise ($13.95) - disappointed only in its preparation. He ordered it medium-rare; it arrived well-done. But the combination of sweet crab and creamy bearnaise was a rich topping for the savory meat. Alongside came a heap of the house potatoes.
The regular menu also features a good selection of vegetarian entrees, including a daily quiche ($7.95); Sauteed Seasonal Vegetables over Rice Pilaf or Spinach Pasta ($8.95); and Jumbo Mushroom Supreme ($7.95), mushrooms topped with sauteed vegetables and Monterey Jack cheese.
Several seafood entrees, including fried or broiled shrimp ($13.95) or crabcakes ($12.95), also are available. Two veal dishes and five chicken entrees round out the dinner menu.
The menu includes Elliot's signature burgers and sandwiches - served with a choice of homemade house potatoes, potato salad or raw vegetables and dip - and salads.
During dinner we ordered several wines by the glass - a nice option. Elliot's also has an adequate selection of bottled wines and several imported and microbrewery beers, bottled and on tap.
Desserts struck the only mundane note of the evening. Coconut cake was overly sweet, and a hot brownie with ice cream and fudge sauce, while delectable, was uninspired.
Overall, we passed a lovely two hours in what had previously been a quick-hit eatery for us. It's nice to think of old friends in new ways. ILLUSTRATION: Color photos
ROY A. BAHLS
The restaurant offers patio as well as indoor dining.
by CNB