THE VIRGINIAN-PILOT
Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: Sunday, October 29, 1995 TAG: 9510310476
SECTION: FLAVOR PAGE: F1 EDITION: FINAL
COLUMN: Chain reaction
TYPE: Restaurant review
SOURCE: BY RUTH FANTASIA, ASSISTANT TO THE FOOD EDITOR
LENGTH: Medium: 89 lines
Polished deck floors and a view of Rudee Inlet make Sloppy Joe's in Virginia Beach a pleasant place to spend an afternoon or evening.
The original Sloppy Joe's, in Key West, Fla., is said to have been a favorite haunt of writer Ernest Hemingway. Now, the American literary legend is the restaurant chain's decorative fixture. Hemingway's portrait is part of the establishment's logo; clippings and photos chronicling the writer's life hang on the walls in the indoor dining rooms.
Watching fishing boats pass in and out of the inlet, and sea gulls swoop overhead, it was easy to imagine Hemingway contemplating ``The Old Man and the Sea'' in a similar venue. Although we doubted the authenticity of flimsy resin outdoor furniture among the early 1950s decor.
The menu is as casual as the atmosphere. Printed on heavy paper and folded like a brochure, it touts a respectable selection of appetizers (from $4.95 to $6.95); salads ($5.95 to $6.95); sandwiches ($2.75 for a hot dog to $6.95 for a fish sandwich); entrees, pizzas and pastas (all from $6.95 to $9.95).
The menu also advertises Sloppy Joe's clothing and beer - and heralds that none of the cooks could find the Culinary Institute of America, much less graduate from it.
Nonetheless, we chose a bacon cheeseburger topped with Cheddar ($5.50) and Martha's Coconut Shrimp ($9.95) for our lunches.
The burger was large and hearty, served with crisp lettuce, a slice of tomato and Bermuda onion on a sesame-seed Kaiser roll. It was cooked to our specifications and served with a hefty pile of potato chips and a sliver of dill pickle.
The Coconut Shrimp consisted of six jumbo shrimp rolled in coconut and deep-fried. It was served with black beans, yellow rice and ``Calypso Punch Salsa.'' The shrimp were flavorful, accented by the chewy-sweet coconut coating and a side serving of orange marmalade. The rice, beans and salsa combination was delightfully spicy, with bits of jalapenos and onions, yet not too hot for our taste.
The portions were abundant and the meal was served hot.
A slice of Key lime pie ($3) was a frozen concoction on a graham-cracker crust, topped with nondairy whipped topping. Though quite tangy, the texture was gummy, not unlike frozen pies found in grocery stores.
We found the meal to our liking. But during our one visit, the staff seemed to take the casual atmosphere too much to heart, perhaps because there were only about 15 diners at the time.
While pleasant, our waitress served our beer without a cup (although the plastic festival-type cups were not particularly sturdy); kept us waiting for our check; and forgot to return our credit card. She did, however, explain why we had to wait 35 minutes for our meal: ``Everyone came in at once.''
Other staff members called to one another from across the room, and the management allowed one group of diners' three children to run throughout the building.
Local musician Doug Dunn was just beginning to perform as we departed; and a band was scheduled after Dunn.
If you're in the mood to relax and dine informally, Sloppy Joe's is a good choice. But before you go, do as the tablecards suggest, and ``Change Your Latitude.'' ILLUSTRATION: Color photos
ROY A. BAHLS
Conch Fritters, Sloppy Joe's Sandwich and Sloppy Joe's Beer are some
of the favorites at the waterfront eatery.
Graphic
CHAIN REACTION
Sloppy Joe's, 530 Winston-Salem Ave., Virginia Beach. 425-2141.
Cuisine: casual, including sandwiches, burgers, entrees and
pizzas.
Atmosphere: small indoor dining areas and dockside dining. Large
bar areas.
Hours: 11:30 a.m. to 2 a.m. daily.
Prices: starters and salads from $4.95 to $6.95; main dishes from
$7.95 to $9.95; sandwiches from $2.75 to $6.95. No children's menu.
Reservations: for parties of 15 or more.
Smoking: not designated because of the building's open-air
structure.
Owned by: Sloppy Joe's Inc., Key West, Fla., which has additional
locations in Atlanta; Orlando, Fla.; Myrtle Beach, S.C.; and
Honolulu.
by CNB