The Virginian-Pilot
                             THE VIRGINIAN-PILOT 
              Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc.

DATE: Thursday, November 2, 1995             TAG: 9511010046
SECTION: FLAVOR                   PAGE: F1   EDITION: FINAL 
COLUMN: MORSELS
SOURCE: RUTH FANTASIA
                                             LENGTH: Medium:   69 lines

NOBODY IS JOKING ABOUT THESE FRUITCAKES

ART WHITAKER didn't plan to enter the fruitcake business. In fact, he never even liked the perennial holiday loaf that's a favorite ingredient among comedians.

But Whitaker, a Suffolk native who lives in suburban Maryland, developed his own version of the holiday treat about 25 years ago and began giving it away to friends. Recipients, he says, practically begged for more.

As time went on, Whitaker offered his cake to just about everyone. The architect designing his basement tried it and volunteered to design the package if Whitaker ever went commercial.

Jessica Bailey, a professor from American University in Washington, D.C., heard about Whitaker's confections - then known as ``love cakes'' - and used them as a project for a marketing-management class. Bailey's four graduate students test-marketed the cakes, recommended packaging changes, set prices and helped develop a name.

The architect made good on his promise of designing the package - in return for cake, of course. And, in 1988, Whitaker commercially introduced his Rumfru Delight Gourmet Cake.

The most common reaction to his cakes, says the tall, slim Whitaker: `` `I don't like fruitcake but I like this.' ''

``We like to say it's more cake than fruit,'' he says, ``but what really makes it great are the spices, rum and bourbon.''

Whitaker's little loaves add flavor to the season. There's a hint of citron and bits of nuts, raisins and cherries to what is mostly cake. His slogan: ``A taste to delight your senses and lift your spirit.''

Whitaker, who is a government mathematician, and wife Marie Peanort Whitaker, began baking in their Adelphi, Md., home. Now, they rent the Fairfax County school kitchen on weekends to produce about 1,000 cakes a year.

The couple still makes each 1 3/4-pound cake, wraps it in cheesecloth and allows it to age at least three weeks before shipping. ``To copy the wine slogan,'' Whitaker says, ``I will sell no cake before it's time.''

Whitaker's Rumfru Delight Gourmet Cake is available by mail-order for $23.95 each, plus shipping and handling. Call (800) 399-2253 (CAKE). DOWNTOWN SWEET DOWNTOWN

Working in downtown Norfolk has just become a little sweeter.

Last week, the Sugar Plum Bakery and Cafe opened inside the Main Street Cafe, across from First Virginia Tower.

The Sugar Plum, a nonprofit bakery that trains, educates and employs disabled persons, opened in 1985 on Laskin Road in Virginia Beach. That store is still open.

The phone number for the Norfolk store is 622-7549. The number in Virginia Beach is 422-3913. ON THE SHELF

Tastykake has launched a line of low-fat products, including lemon, apple and raspberry-filled coffeecakes and vanilla and chocolate cupcakes. A box of 12 costs $2.39. . . . Betty Crocker has introduced Sweet Rewards fat-free snack-cake mixes in chocolate, apple-cinnamon, lemon and banana flavors. A box costs about $1.59 and makes a single 9-by-9-inch layer. ILLUSTRATION: Color photo

RICHARD L. DUNSTON/The Virginian-Pilot

Art Whitaker's fruitcakes aren't passed around; they're eaten.

by CNB