THE VIRGINIAN-PILOT
Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: Sunday, November 5, 1995 TAG: 9511020062
SECTION: FLAVOR PAGE: F1 EDITION: FINAL
COLUMN: BILL OF FARE
TYPE: Restaurant review
SOURCE: By DONNA REISS, RESTAURANT CRITIC
LENGTH: Long : 103 lines
EURASIA IS as international as its name.
Chef-owner Amarin Reelachart has brought together the Thai influences of his grandmother's home cooking, culinary training at Germany's University of Kaiserslautern, six years cooking in local Italian restaurants, and regional American restaurant experience.
This combination won him a following at Virginia Beach's Pasta e Pani, where he was sous chef for four years, and at the now-defunct Big Tomato, where he added Asian touches to the popular regional-American menu.
Since August, Reelachart has been in charge of his own kitchen at the aptly named Eurasia.
There, a small foyer is created by a panel advertisement for Absolut vodka. The dining room is pleasantly decorated with grape-print tablecovers and wall hangings of empty gilt frames.
Several visits have brought mostly successful meals, especially the dishes with a Thai touch. Chalkboard specials also have been noteworthy. For example, on a recent weekend, smoked mahi-mahi was a featured starter. Done with enough delicacy to maintain the moistness of the fresh fish, this opener was outstanding.
In contrast, chopped fresh tuna in lemon-lime sauce lacked the distinctive flavors of the cilantro and lemongrass listed on the menu. The fresh vegetables in the spring rolls usually are crunchy and the tamarind-ginger sauce a refreshing sweet-and-spicy dip; however, the wrappers are occasionally greasy and the filling sometimes a little heavy on cabbage.
Large New Zealand mussels, occasionally a bit overcooked, come with an elegant sauce to sop with slices of excellent Italian bread. Mixed greens and Caesar salads have been consistently good. Other openers are shrimp with yummy peppery ponzu sauce for dipping, mozzarella caprese, and two chicken offerings.
Poultry dishes have been tasty. Free-range chicken stuffed with spinach, shallots and Romano cheese is one of the few stuffed chicken dishes that hasn't collapsed under its own weight. The bird remained succulent, the stuffing ingredients balanced just right - not overpowering the main item. A Cornish hen is a simple preparation, served with lots of chopped fresh tomatoes and a light wine sauce.
A rich combination of fish and shellfish, Italian seafood stew in a tasty stock seasoned with saffron, garlic and wine almost overflowed its large bowl. Thai spicy saute of shrimp and calamari with sweet peppers, hot chilies and fragrant Thai basil was an excellent blend on its own, served with just the right level of heat. However, we thought spinach fettuccine was too heavy and pasty for this dish, which might have shone with rice or slender noodles.
On two visits several weeks apart, we sampled the medallions of beef in port wine. Breaded with a mustardy coating, the two pieces of beef were flavorful, the preparation a surprising upscale variant of country-fried steak. A chalkboard special of snapper with green curry and jasmine rice was pleasant, the fish tender and the rice perfectly cooked.
Among the slightly oversauteed mixed vegetables, a couple of crunchy baby carrots were best. On another visit, baby green squash were prepared perfectly al dente.
Desserts have been unexceptional. Bread pudding was rather dry except for a nicely balanced whiskey sauce. Creme brulee is a different flavor each night; our chocolate version was pleasantly pudding-like. An espresso cheesecake was very nice.
A small lunch menu offers variety similar to the dinner menu, along with sandwiches of fresh tuna, marinated chicken breast, fresh mozzarella, and smoked ham with Cheddar cheese.
Service is acceptably informal. A chef's bar beside the open kitchen allows some diners to watch as their dinners are sauteed to order. Despite some inconsistencies, Eurasia is worth watching for its interesting variety, nightly specials, and Chef Reelachart's concern for quality and willingness to accommodate special requests. MEMO: Reviews are based on a single, unannounced visit by a party of two or
three, unless otherwise noted. The Virginian-Pilot pays for the
reviewer's meal and those of the guests.
ILLUSTRATION: ROY A. BAHLS COLOR PHOTOS
Zuppe de Pesce (Italizan Seafood Stew), featuring clams, mussels,
shrimp, calamari, scallops and fish, is $14.95.
Eurasia Spring Rolls with julienne vegetables ($3.95).
Graphic
BILL OF FARE
Eurasia Intercontinental Cuisine, 4000 Virginia Beach Blvd., at
Loehmann's Plaza, Virginia Beach. 463-7146.
Cuisine: continental, Asian, and regional American.
Atmosphere: casual mood with simple furnishings, bright
grape-print tablecovers, a chef's bar in back.
Prices: Lunch from $4.95 to $7.50; dinner starters from $3.95 to
$5.50; main dishes from $8.50 to $14.95; desserts from $3.25 to
$3.50; children's portions on request.
Hours: lunch from 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. Monday through Saturday.
Dinner from 5:30 to 10 p.m. Tuesday through Thursday, from 5:30 to
11 p.m. Friday and Saturday, and from 5 to 9 p.m. Sunday.
Reservations: for parties of 6 or more.
Smoking: none.
by CNB