THE VIRGINIAN-PILOT
Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: Sunday, November 19, 1995 TAG: 9511171167
SECTION: HOME PAGE: G8 EDITION: FINAL
COLUMN: GARDENING
SOURCE: ROBERT STIFFLER
LENGTH: Long : 104 lines
I have a large sycamore tree on which the leaves turned brown and papery in May. To happen at that time of year seemed unusual.
For years, I have used Isotox and Funginex to spray my roses. This year Coleman's Nursery recommended Ferti-lome Rose Spray, which required less mixing. For the first time, my roses have spots on them that look like the green has come off or been eaten off both sides. I believe the new spray caused the problem or it certainly did not cure it. What do you think?
Joyce Beard, Chesapeake
Experts say the problem with your sycamore tree is a common one, called anthracnose. It happens when the leaves are just forming. If it rains during that time, it worsens the problem. They recommend a London plane tree as a substitute.
As to your rose problem, take some of the leaves to Coleman's Nursery and ask their advice. I'm not familiar with what Ferti-loam uses in their rose spray, but the chances are that it did not cause the problem. The problem would have to be identified before knowing what is required to cure it. I have never seen leaves like you describe.
In a recent storm, I lost a 30-foot hybrid poplar, but there is 18 inches of the trunk left above ground. Is there anything I can use to kill the trunk?
Edwina Davis, Edenton, N.C.
Virginia Tech experts recommend you let the trunk sprout. Then spray the foliage with full-strength 2,4-D, available in a farm or garden center. It may take one or more applications, but it will eventually kill the trunk. You can then drill holes in the trunk and put powdered milk or saltpeter in the holes. Plug the holes, and the trunk will slowly rot.
Can you recommend a book on raising carnations? Several years ago, I started about 200 beautiful flowers, but in the fourth year, they died out.
I buy ivy geraniums in baskets every year. The last several years, the baskets have come with some type of disease, which causes leaves to turn yellow. I am enclosing a leaf for your inspection. Do you know any remedy for this problem?
Dan Lewis, Virginia Beach
Horticulturists at the Hampton Roads Research Center say to buy your hanging basket geraniums from a new source next year. The problem is oedema, which is not a disease, and there is no cure for it. It came with the plants. Unfortunately, it seems that the great demand for bedding plants and hanging baskets has provided opportunity for many more diseased or sick plants to be sold.
As to carnations, they are very difficult to grow unless you have a greenhouse. I know of no book on them. My suggestion is to go to a library and look for appropriate books. If that doesn't work, contact one of these publishers: Capability's Books, Box 114, Deer Park, Wis. 54007 or Timber Press, 9999 S.W. Wilshire, Portland, Ore. 97225.
Please identify the enclosed weed and tell me how I can get rid of it. It seems to be taking over my lawn. I have used Weed-B-Gon but that didn't help. I'm at a loss.
Janet Goos, Virginia Beach
Your weed is Virginia buttonweed, one of the worst pests in a lawn or garden and very difficult to control. It is a perennial weed with white flowers that prefers low, moist areas. It usually grows close to the ground and is resistant to most weed killers, including Weed-B-Gon. Virginia Tech experts say the only sure way to eliminate it is to use Roundup, and that may require two years. If you don't want to go that route, use Roundup this year. Replant your grass after the buttonweed turns brown. Because it is a perennial, some will reappear in 1996 and you will need to pull that by hand.
I have a large garden and grow several kinds of vegetables with great success. Four years ago, I was told I had Southern wilt in the garden, so I did not plant any tomatoes for four years. This spring I had a load of top soil, one half load of sand and some peat moss put on the garden. I thought that would change the texture of the soil so that I could plant tomatoes again. I planted 20 tomatoes of different varieties but in June, I spotted one plant wilting. What can I do to get rid of this Southern wilt?
Cecelia Anderson, Virginia Beach
This was a bad season for tomatoes, and probably all of yours died from Southern wilt, because it will kill the plants. Four years with no tomatoes is the usual cure, and you followed that plan. You could very well have received more Southern wilt with the topsoil you bought. Sometimes planting a cover crop such as winter rye or wheat on the garden during the winter will help. There is no known cure except to keep tomatoes out of the area where you know you have Southern wilt.
Our beautiful vegetable garden went downhill fast in July, due to nematodes. We can no longer obtain Vapam, which offered good control. I understand there is nothing else offered the home gardener other than plastic to cover the ground and create great heat, which I have found is not very successful. Can you help? Also can you give again the ingredients for the organic mixture that will sterilize the soil? We are hopeful that it will do more than kill off weeds and leftover seeds, namely get rid of the nematodes.
Virginia Wheaton, Kitty Hawk
My sources tell me that Vapam may not be restricted, but retailers no longer carry it because of the risks involved. Virginia Tech experts say to plant rye grass on the garden this winter and do not plant in the soil for several years. That usually starves the nematodes. Also each season, rotate where you plant vegetables. Chitin, which is ground crab shells, seems to be fairly good at eliminating nematodes. Norfolk Co. Feed and Seed, which carries just about everything available, is no longer able to obtain Chitin. They recommend Gardentone, a fertilizer containing crabmeal.
I am not reprinting the organic soil sterilant formula, because I have found it doesn't work. It's unlikely it would get rid of nematodes. by CNB