THE VIRGINIAN-PILOT
Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: Sunday, December 3, 1995 TAG: 9511300062
SECTION: FLAVOR PAGE: F2 EDITION: FINAL
COLUMN: HUMBLE STEWARD
SOURCE: JIM RAPER
LENGTH: Medium: 84 lines
DECEMBER, more than any other month, finds us ducking into grocery stores to buy wine.
We have a dozen guests coming to a holiday dinner and we shop for the wine at the last minute. Or we are on our way to a party and we need a bottle to take as a courtesy gift.
The shopper in these circumstances is likely to be intimidated. Grocery stores just display the wines; they don't have salespeople to help us find ones that meet our specs - expensive-looking bottle, rich taste, bargain price.
Here is handful of labels that are found in grocery stores and make favorable impressions at favorable prices:
Beaulieu Vineyards (BV) Beau Tour - BV is one of the venerable Napa wineries and some of its more expensive wines, including the Georges de Latour Private Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, have been among the best produced in California. The Beau Tour line is not expensive, but each of the varietals offers correct, refined flavors.
The 1992 Merlot Napa ($8) is a deep and delicious red that tastes even better when found at local sale prices of about $6.50. Also look for the 1994 Pinot Noir California ($8). The Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay and Fume Blanc in this line have been well made in recent vintages, as well.
Bolla - This huge Italian producer is known to many for its rather thin Bardolino red. The 1993 Valpolicella ($6) is a bit richer than the same vintage of the Bardolino and more agreeable to American tastes.
When Francesco Bolla, the chairman of the company, visited Hampton Roads recently, I tasted three of his varietals that are even more likely to be popular in our market. The 1993 Sangiovese di Romangna ($6) is the best of the bunch; it extracts more from the sangiovese grape than does the typical inexpensive Chianti.
The 1993 Merlot Piave ($6) is a light but tasty example of this red varietal. The 1994 Chardonnay Puglia ($6) is unoaked and has a bright, refreshing taste.
Napa Ridge - Recent vintages of varietals from this California winery have established it as a ``best-value'' producer extraordinaire. The 1993 Pinot Noir North Coast ($8) is a very good wine for the money. Surprisingly, it is often discounted to about $6.
The 1993 Chardonnay Central Coast ($8) has some buttery depth to it, and the 1993 Cabernet Sauvignon North Coast ($8) is lush enough to taste like a wine costing twice as much.
Corbett Canyon - The 1994 Chardonnay California Coastal Classic ($5) and 1993 Cabernet Sauvignon California Coastal Classic ($6) from this winery are generous with fruit flavors and fairly long on the finish. The Chardonnay gets a lift from a bit of chenin blanc in the blend, and the Cabernet has some pinot noir in it to round it out. Perhaps the strict connoisseur would object, but don't knock these wines until you've tried them.
Turning Leaf - This is a new label from California's goliath, E&J Gallo. A pricey advertising campaign is pushing the wines - especially the 1994 Chardonnay North Coast ($8) - and sales promotions are cutting a buck or two off the price.
Other varietals in the line include Fume Blanc, Zinfandel and Pinot Noir. All have pleasing body to them. The 1992 Pinot Noir North Coast ($8) might be too mature and earthy tasting to please all palates, but is interesting nonetheless.
Mirassou - I include this label because of one wine, the 1994 White Burgundy Pinot Blanc Monterey County ($7.50). Other wines from this producer are sturdy, some better than others. The White Burgundy is a high-quality, medium-bodied wine that is delightful as an aperitif and versatile with food.
Marques de Caceres - The 1991 Rioja Crianza ($9) from this producer usually can be found in our market for $6.50. At that price it is a bargain; at $9 it still is worthy of consideration. This red has plenty of dark berry fruit together with notes of tea and spice to make it fairly complex. It mates well with a wide variety of foods.
La Vieille Ferme - The 1992 Cotes-du-Ventoux ($8) is a spicy, full-flavored red. This is sometimes discounted to $6.
Wyndham Estate - Look for the 1994 Chardonnay Hunter Valley Oak Cask ($8) and the 1993 Shiraz South Eastern Australia ($8) from this reliable producer. MEMO: The Humble Steward is a biweekly feature of Sunday Flavor. Send
questions or comments to: The Humble Steward, Sunday Flavor, The
Virginian-Pilot, 150 W. Brambleton Ave., Norfolk, Va. 23510. If
possible, give complete label information when naming wines, and list
the vintage year. Please include your name and phone number. by CNB