The Virginian-Pilot
                             THE VIRGINIAN-PILOT 
              Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc.

DATE: Sunday, December 17, 1995              TAG: 9512140053
SECTION: FLAVOR                   PAGE: F4   EDITION: FINAL 
COLUMN: HUMBLE STEWARD
SOURCE: JIM RAPER
                                             LENGTH: Long  :  106 lines

AREA WINE MERCHANTS REVEAL THEIR FAVORITES FOR THE HOLIDAY SEASON

WINE SHOP owners and proprietors can do much to educate their customers about wine and to influence buying decisions.

During the holidays, when sales of wine rise dramatically, retailers give dozens of little lectures every day to shoppers who ask for help.

This often leads to what is called a ``hand sell.'' The salesperson pulls a bottle from the rack and says something like, ``I think you'll be happy with this. It has a lovely bouquet and a long finish.'' The customer asks a few questions, the salesperson gives reassuring answers, and the hand sell is made.

A trace of skepticism inevitably crops up on the buyer's side of this equation. He heads toward the cash register, bottle in hand, wondering, ``Was I putty, or what?''

My reassuring answer to that question is: A wine shop that pushes quirky or overpriced wines won't stay in business for long. And, when the customer is looking for the right wines for holiday entertaining or gift-giving, it makes sense to trust an established wine merchant.

The alternative is to shop at a serve-yourself store, where all the mistakes you make will be your own.

With this in mind, I asked established wine merchants of the region to tell me what they recommend when customers ask typical holiday season questions: ``Do you have a good, inexpensive sparkling wine?'' ``If I wanted to splurge a little on a sparkling wine, what should I buy?'' ``What should I choose as a gift for a wine lover and collector?''

Here are the recommendations:

From P.J. Baggan, 960 Laskin Road, Virginia Beach. (Recommendations and comments by owner Pat Daly.)

Pol Roger 1986 Brut Champagne ($46) - ``Very nice, tight bubbles, lemony, and with vintage flavor.''

Croft Tawny Reserve Port ($22) - ``I'm focusing on Ports this season and this is a nutty mouthful.''

Fonseca 1983 Vintage Port ($52) - ``Good berry and peppery flavors, and can be given as a gift with the Fonseca cigars ($5 to $6 each) I sell.''

Graham 1977 Vintage Port ($75) - ``Mature, with berry and tar aromas.''

From East of Napa, Chambord Commons, Virginia Beach Boulevard and Great Neck Road, Virginia Beach. (Recommendations and comments by owner Andrea Burke Simek.)

Aria Extra Dry Cava ($11.50) - ``Little smoky flavor, a nice Spanish sparkling wine to entertain with.''

Taittinger Brut Champagne ($33) - ``Creamy, elegant, with vanilla, pear and spice flavors.''

Joseph Phelps 1992 Insignia Napa Valley ($51) - ``Well-balanced cherry and oak flavors, this cabernet-based blend is a great gift as a millenium wine.''

From Bella Monte, 134 Hilltop East, Virginia Beach. (Recommendations and comments by owner Robin Tuite.)

Mirabelle Brut ($13) - ``Second label of Schramsberg, this has elegant toasty aroma and fruity, complex flavors.''

Gruet Brut New Mexico ($16) - ``Golden color, toasty and full-bodied, and the label's Blanc de Noirs is very good, as well.''

Dunn 1991 Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mountain ($69) - ``Dark, dense, earthy and will develop over time into concentrated flavors of black currant, minerals, cedar and anise.''

Front Street Restaurant, 434 North Main St., Suffolk. (Recommendations and comments by Fannie Gayle, an owner of the restaurant and on-premises wine shop.)

Martini & Rossi Sparkling Demi Sec ($14.15). ``Very popular, especially with women who don't like their sparkling wines too dry.''

Veuve Cliquot Brut Champagne Yellow Label ($42.05) - ``A true Champagne for customers who want the best.''

Kistler 1992 Cabernet Sauvignon California ($17.55) - ``A very good red from one of my favorite California wineries.''

Prince Michel Le Ducq Lot 88 ($57.05) - ``The best red from a Virginia winery.''

From West Side Wine Shop, 4700 Hampton Blvd., Norfolk. (Recommendations and comments by owner Vicki Dickerson.)

Louis de Vernier Blanc de Blancs Cava ($6.98) - ``Nice and toasty Spanish sparkling wine.''

Jordan ``J'' 1990 Sonoma County ($25.95) - ``A wonderful bottle of sparkling wine highly rated in Wine Spectator (91 points).''

Chateau St. Jean 1989 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve Alexander Valley ($85 for magnum) - ``A lush cab, robust, and will last well into the next century.''

From Taste Unlimited, with five locations: 36th Street and Pacific Avenue, 4097 Shore Drive, and 638 Hilltop West, all in Virginia Beach; 1619 Colley Ave., Norfolk; Great Bridge Shopping Center, Chesapeake. (Recommendations and comments by owner Peter Coe.)

Gloria Ferrer Blanc de Noir California ($12.95) - ``A high-quality sparkling wine for the money, crisp but with an echo of berry.''

Perrier Jouet Grand Brut Champagne ($19.95) - ``A best value among the real Champagnes.''

Silver Oak 1991 Cabernet Sauvignon Alexander Valley ($43) - ``Now this is a collectible wine from California.''

Albert Morot 1992 Beaune Cent-Vignes ($49) - ``I am always pleased to recommend this red Burgundy, a Robert Kacher selection.''

22 Wine Street Gourmet, 22 Wine St., Hampton. (Recommendations and comments by owner George LeCuyer.)

Seaview 1991 Brut Australia ($11.99) - ``Full, creamy texture, surprising for the price, and semillon in the blend gives it a crisp, delicate finish.''

Roederer Estate Brut Anderson Valley ($17.99) - ``The famous French Champagne house produces what may be California's best sparkling wines, with full, rich nose and lemony, toasty flavors.''

Joseph Drouhin Chorey-les-Beaune ($24.99) - ``A red Burgundy with lively, fresh berry flavors, charming throughout now, and with a very good future.''

by CNB