THE VIRGINIAN-PILOT
Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: Sunday, December 24, 1995 TAG: 9512210052
SECTION: FLAVOR PAGE: F1 EDITION: FINAL
TYPE: Restaurant review
SOURCE: BY BROWN H. CARPENTER, STAFF WRITER
LENGTH: Medium: 88 lines
THE SECRET to a good steakhouse is quality beef cooked to the customer's request. Rare means rare. Medium-rare means medium-rare.
The partnership that owns the Yukon Steak Co. at Providence Square Shopping Center in Kempsville understands this. And it offers a few extras, says partner Bob Farrand.
This is a new chain, and the Virginia Beach store is its first link. A second is under construction in the Haygood area of Virginia Beach. Many more are planned, says Farrand, who has worked for the Cheers and Bennigan's chains.
The Yukon steaks, ordered from Chicago, are a bit thicker than normal and aged three to four weeks, Farrand says. A homemade blend of spices is added, then the steaks are grilled.
Customers can watch the chefs in action at the charcoal grill in the dining area.
Four of us recently dined at the Yukon on a Saturday evening; we were seated after a few minutes. We found the service attentive and courteous and the food superb.
The Yukon theme is limited to the no-nonsense open, stained-wood decor with photos of northern Canada here and there, and a totem pole. No moose or elk steaks are on the menu; the big moosehead on the wall is not from a real animal.
But Farrand says the restaurant may offer bison steaks in the future.
The menu features a couple of tasty shrimp appetizers ($5.95 each). The Klondike Crisps are grilled tortilla wedges stuffed with shrimp, snow crab and Swiss cheese served with a black bean salsa. The Cookshack Shrimp are served scampi style with sourdough chips.
Either could satisfy two diners. The Cookshack Shrimp also can be ordered as an entree ($9.95) or as an extra with any dish ($4.95).
For entrees, we chose three beef dishes and baked salmon.
The Tenderfoot Filet ($14.95) was sufficiently tender and nicely flavored. The middle-sized serving of prime rib ($14.95) was also first-rate.
The Klondiker ($13.95), a New York strip, was ordered rare and came that way - red in the middle. It was just about as tender as the filet.
The salmon, broiled over an open fire and served with black bean salsa and a baked potato, was equally delicious. The servings of fish and steak were large enough to split, allowing two patrons to sample generous portions of both.
Farrand boasts that the salmon is flown into the area daily.
Also for those not in the mood for beef, the Yukon offers chicken dishes, a seafood catch of the day and a pasta entree, most for under $10. Baby back ribs are $11.95.
Salads are included in the price of the steaks, beef and ribs; they're $1.95 extra with other fare.
The Caesar salad ($3.95 by itself) could be more robust.
One side dish we recommend is baked corn pudding, a custard-flavored veggie that substitutes for potatoes.
Children's grub is priced from $2.95 to $4.45. The Yukon is family friendly.
Yukon Gold, the house lager, a micro-brewery-style beverage, was smooth accompaniment to our steaks. ILLUSTRATION: Color photo
ROY A. BAHLS
The Yukon Steak Co. in Virginia Beach is the first store in the
chain. The Yukon decor includes a totem pole.
Graphic
CHAIN REACTION
Yukon Steak Co., 995 Providence Square Shopping Center, Virginia
Beach. 495-7745.
Hours: from 4 to 10 p.m. Monday through Thursday; from 4 to 11:30
p.m. Friday and Saturday; from 4 to 9:30 p.m. Sunday.
Prices: Steak entrees, from $11.95 to $17.95; prime rib, from
$12.45 to $17.95; baby back ribs, $11.95; other fare from $7.95
(grilled chicken breast) to $11.95 (broiled salmon). Salads are
$1.95 extra with nonbeef, nonrib dinners.
Reservations: not accepted.
Smoking: limited to the tables around the bar.
Owned by: Yukon Steak Co. Inc., a new, locally owned company. A
second restaurant is under construction in the Haygood area of
Virginia Beach.
by CNB