THE VIRGINIAN-PILOT
Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: Sunday, December 31, 1995 TAG: 9601030609
SECTION: FLAVOR PAGE: F1 EDITION: FINAL
TYPE: Restaurant review
SOURCE: BY DONNA REISS, RESTAURANT CRITIC
LENGTH: Long : 105 lines
LIKE THE directors in Hollywood, the man behind Bobbywood combines art, craft, popular taste, drama, humor and technology.
But for chef-owner Bobby Huber, the medium is not film but food.
Twenty-nine and on his own again after several years in other people's kitchens, Huber is creative and disciplined. His serious side shows in the open kitchen, where staff members wear headsets to coordinate tasks and to avoid shouting above diners' conversations.
His whimsy shows in his ensembles of food-motif caps and matching baggy pants, in the menu's excess of exclamation marks and in the tinseltown-by-the-sea caricatures adorning the walls of the dining room and rest rooms. The caricatures were painted by Huber's nephew, Nathan Fell of Portsmouth.
During its first two months, Bobbywood was crowded with curiosity seekers, people who enjoyed his cooking at the Blue Crab from 1989 through 1991 and more recently at the Ships Cabin - plus a few other kitchens in between, including his short-lived stint as chef of his own eatery, Sweet Bird of Youth.
Now the waits are much more reasonable. You can book a table for a party of six or more; otherwise, you can hang out at the huge horseshoe bar preserved from Jerry's, the 1940s neighborhood landmark that formerly occupied the site.
On one visit, we were a group of eight, able therefore to taste a range of dishes from the menu, which changes weekly (and which could benefit from a more readable design).
Enthusiastic and knowledgable staff clad in black and neckties of various colors brought loaves of semolina bread, gently slid them from serving platters to the paper-topped tables, and returned with a pastry tube to pipe soft butter rosettes onto small dishes. Every table had a bottle of herbed olive oil for bread or salads.
Starters set the stage with tempting variety. There was a basic salad garnished with nuts and cheese, but we were inclined to more exotic openers. Although the bacon-wrapped scallops were barely cooked, a state which some of our party approved but others rejected, they made a nice complement to field greens, fried onion threads and bits of brie.
Grilled breast of duck and tuna sashimi were excellent and the accompanying potato cakes delicious, though not ``crisp'' as promised on the menu. Spring rolls were lightly gingery; a spinach-feta pizza unexceptional despite having been freshly made in the stone oven. Chunky gumbo with a vibrant Louisiana flavor and well-balanced seasoning was, alas, barely lukewarm.
Oyster stew with a dollop of mashed potatoes, on the other hand, was practically perfect, laced with bacon, corn and the sweet oniony scent of shallots.
We applauded most of our dinners. Rockfish with ricelike orzo pasta was served in a gigantic bowl with lots of sherry pepper creme fraiche sauce, bits of bacon and tasso ham, and broccoli flowers. Lovely onion-crusted salmon touched with sage cream came with one of our favorite side dishes, mashed potato cakes with spinach. Flavorful olive-onion dressing stuffed under the skin of roasted chicken was tasty, but the bird itself a bit dry. In contrast, the crisp duck was succulent and the braised greens an earthy and appetizing accompaniment. Juicy and delicious, too, was the veal chop with a slight stuffing of ham and mushrooms. Stewed squashes with several dishes were soft, Southern-comfort style rather than modishly al dente.
We were unadventurous with wine, opting for bottles of new Beaujolais despite Bobbywood's extensive list, including a dozen in half bottles and eight by the glass. We were more adventurous with the last act, sampling five of the nine desserts. Best were sweet potato praline peanut pie and chocolate amaretto sin pie.
The chocolate-banana-walnut cake was fine, as was the dark chocolate chambord ``better-than-sex'' cake. A tasty candy tower of white and dark chocolates surrounded by fresh fruit housed frangelica mousse that resembled aerated plastic.
Wine dinners are planned for 1996, and tonight, Bobbywood will raise the curtain on a room for cigar smokers.
The mood and food at Bobbywood are casual enough for comfort and careful enough for confidence. We'll gladly return for a repeat performance.
ILLUSTRATION: Color photo
MARK MITCHELL/The Virginian-Pilot
On his own again after several years in other people's kitchens,
chef Bobby Huber is both creative and disciplined.
Graphic
BILL OF FARE
Bobbywood, 7515 Granby St., at Wards Corner, Norfolk. 440-7515.
Cuisine: eclectic modern American.
Atmosphere: whimsical casual with caricatures and neon; a vintage
horseshoe bar; large, open kitchen; and upbeat attitude. Gravel
parking lot behind the building.
Prices: lunch averages $5; dinner starters from $4 to $7; main
dishes, including pizzas, from $7 to $19; desserts from $4 to $5.
Children's portions available on request.
Hours: lunch 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. Monday through Friday; dinner 5 to
9 p.m. Monday, 5 to 10 p.m. Tuesday through Thursday, 5:30 to 11
p.m. Friday and 5 to 11 p.m. Saturday.
Reservations: for parties of six or more.
Smoking: 30 percent - bar and lounge only. Back room for cigars
beginning tonight.
by CNB