THE VIRGINIAN-PILOT
Copyright (c) 1996, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: Thursday, January 18, 1996 TAG: 9601160090
SECTION: NORFOLK COMPASS PAGE: 14 EDITION: FINAL
COLUMN: On the Town
SOURCE: Sam Martinette
LENGTH: Medium: 76 lines
If you feel like a trip to the big city right here at home, try stopping by Cafe Rosso, the new eatery on West 21st Street.
Located in what was Fellini's before that establishment moved to Colley Avenue, Cafe Rosso (the red cafe) offers excellent Italian food at very reasonable prices. After three visits, I continue to be impressed with the variety of dishes and their preparation.
Mahogany booths along walls hung with whimsical wine posters are separated from the main dining floor by an iron railing. The activity at the wood-burning oven behind the bar draws the eyes of diners while the comforting aromas of a busy Italian kitchen blend with the cozy hum of a popular spot, tinkling glassware and soft voices providing a music all their own. This is a new room that looks as if it has been around for decades, with a warm, sophisticated feel. It has come a long way from its days as the 21st Street Cafeteria.
Having sampled a number of dishes, I can heartily recommend starting the meal with a wood-oven-roasted tomato with mozzarella and sauteed calamari ($4.50), or eggplant prepared much the same way and served with tomatoes, for those who don't like squid. Another appetizer of note is a pair of homemade tomato and basil ravioli, filled with a three-cheese mix and served with your choice of an Alfredo or marinara sauce ($4.50). Dipping the house bruschetta (toasted focaccia bread) in the Cafe Rosso sauces is an additional treat.
My favorite pasta dish thus far has been the penne with lamb sausage, topped with a spinach marinara sauce and served with a large dollop of a ricotta cheese mixture ($8.95). I also like the fresh tuna chunks served over penne with a sweet vermouth cream sauce and sun-dried tomatoes ($9.95). Both are unusual and flavorful, with excellent sauces.
One friend of mine can't seem to get by the angel hair pasta with marinara sauce. With fresh mozzarella, basil and shallots and priced at $5.95, she assures me the dish is a bargain not to be found elsewhere in Ghent. Other pasta dishes include Fettuccine Alfredo ($6.50); linguine with sauteed mussels, olive oil, garlic and fresh basil, topped with a light marinara sauce ($9.50); chicken cacciatore rigatoni (chicken, mushrooms, onions and red peppers in a heavy tomato sauce, $8.95); herb-encrusted salmon, baked with fresh herbs over fettuccini and served with a pinkish sauce and fresh tomatoes ($12.95); and slow-roasted lamb shank served over linguine with a lamb and carrot demi-glaze ($12.95).
Pizzas include a Greek-style pie with feta cheese, artichokes, olives, garlic and tomatoes ($6.50 for a small pie and $9.25 for the large); the Chicken Bianco (oven-roasted chicken, spinach, olive oil, mozzarella and Parmesan cheeses ($6.95/$9.50); a lamb sausage pie with roasted red peppers, mozzarella and onions ($6.95/$9.50); and the traditional cheese and tomato, pepperoni and four-cheese pies.
There are salads (field greens for $3.75; Greek or Caesar for $4.75), soups and calzone (sausage or vegetarian for $5.50) and desserts, including a tiramisu cheese cake ($4.50), or lemon or raspberry sorbetto ($2.50).
Also evident is partner Joe Hoggard's (of Ship's Cabin fame) wine savvy, with some five dozen wines on the list, ranging from a bottle of Italian Trebbiano Bianco or M.G. Vallejo Cabernet Sauvignon at $12 a bottle or $2.65 a glass, to Moet & Chandon White Star champagne at $49 a bottle, with most bottles in the $14 to $16 range. You can sample many of the wines by the glass, and most are less than $4 a glass.
A number of microbrews are available, including Norfolk's own Steamship Raspberry Ale. Espresso, latte and cappuccino are also available. The luncheon menu offers some sandwiches and combination platters.
With its smooth, classic look, excellent and well-priced food and Joe Hoggard's well-known attention to detail, Cafe Rosso is destined for stardom on the culinary scene. ILLUSTRATION: Photo by SAM MARTINETTE
Joe Hoggard is one of the owners of Cafe Rosso, which has opened in
what once was Fellini's on West 21st Street in Ghent.
by CNB