THE VIRGINIAN-PILOT
Copyright (c) 1996, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: Sunday, January 28, 1996 TAG: 9601300473
SECTION: FLAVOR PAGE: F1 EDITION: FINAL
TYPE: Restaurant review
SOURCE: BY BROWN H. CARPENTER, STAFF WRITER
LENGTH: Medium: 99 lines
IS THERE room for yet another pasta restaurant? Better yet, is there room for another pasta restaurant in Norfolk's Ghent, where trendy dining abounds?
In the case of Cafe Rosso, the answer is a resounding yes. Ample portions of pasta are served 18 tasty ways, at prices from $5.95 to $12.95.
Cafe Rosso, owned by veteran restaurateur Joe Hoggard, was established about four months ago at 21st Street and Omohundro Avenue, the former site of Fellini's (which has moved to Colley Avenue).
Hoggard, who also owns the Ships Cabin seafood restaurant in Ocean View, describes the cuisine as ``Mediterranean, the kind of food you find from Nice to Naples.''
We'd add a dash of California eclectic to the description.
The aura at Cafe Rosso is meant to be ``informal and relaxed,'' says chef Alberto Papsodero, whose career is seasoned by stints at Pasta e Pani in Virginia Beach and Freemason Abbey in downtown Norfolk. The mood is enhanced by subtle lighting (dim but you can read the menu), a big wine rack in the center and an open kitchen.
The walls are adorned with framed travel posters and artsy photos. Diners may select a booth or a table if there is no wait.
Our party of four tried Cafe Rosso at 6:30 on a recent Saturday night and had no trouble being seated, although the restaurant became more crowded shortly thereafter.
Intrigued by the homemade lamb sausage, we ordered it on a small pizza ($6.95) as an appetizer, along with a helping of oven-roasted eggplant ($4.50).
The pizza made an excellent starter for four people. The sausage was mildly spicy with little lamb flavor - perhaps lost in the roasted red peppers, mozzarella, onions and sauce that accompanied it.
The eggplant passed muster, too, but is sufficient for just one diner - split among four, it allowed just a bite apiece. The eggplant was roasted with tomato and mozzarella.
The pasta dishes vary widely, from the familiar angel hair with marinara to the more exotic mahi mahi with risotto.
We selected penne with lamb sausage ($8.95). This time, the sausage tasted like lamb; the spinach, marinara sauce and ricotta cheese allowed the meat to star.
Chicken balsamic ($9.95), served with roasted red peppers, mushrooms, black olives, spinach and capers on a bed of penne with fresh tomatoes, was marinated just enough to add a subtle flavor.
Mahi mahi with risotto ($10.95) was sauteed to tender, the Italian crumb breading brought to a light crust. The creamy tomato Parmesan risotto was the heaviest pasta at our table. If you're picky, you might say it was too much for the fish, but it sure tasted good.
For our veal and artichokes ($11.95), veal medallions were placed on linguine along with marinated artichokes, capers, garlic, lemon juice and white wine. The seasonings were unobtrusive, the meat tender.
Cafe Rosso's menu is a la carte, so salads, which we omitted, are extra. The choices are field greens ($3.75), Greek and Caesar ($4.75) and Nicoise ($6.75).
Servers keep tables supplied with herbed focaccia.
For dessert, we divided two offerings not on the regular menu: triple chocolate torte and apple pear tart ($3.50 each). We downed them easily.
In addition to the fine food, Cafe Rosso has a large, mostly moderately priced wine list. More than 20 selections may be ordered by the glass. Beer aficionados may pick from six micro-brews ($3 per pint) - including Norfolk's Steamship - plus more familiar brands.
We hope Cafe Rosso will be a favorite in Ghent for a long time. MEMO: Reviews are based on a single, unannounced visit by a party of two or
three, unless otherwise noted. The Virginian-Pilot pays for the
reviewer's meal and those of the guests.
ILLUSTRATION: Color photos
ROY A. BAHLS
Cafe Rosso is at 21st Street and Omohundro Avenue, the former site
of Fellini's in Norfolk's Ghent.
A featured entree at Cafe Rosso is Balsamic Chicken Breast, served
here with a Greek salad.
Graphic
BILL OF FARE
Cafe Rosso, 21st Street and Omohundro Avenue, Norfolk. 627-2078.
Cuisine: pastas and pizzas.
Atmosphere: casual and informal. Framed posters and photos on the
wall. Open kitchen.
Prices: pasta dishes from $5.95 to $12.95; large pizzas from
$8.50 to $9.75; calzones, $5.50; salad Nicoise, $6.25.
Hours: from 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m.; from 5:30 to 10 p.m. Monday
through Thursday; from 5:30 to 11 p.m. Friday; from 5 to 11 p.m.
Saturday; from 5 to 10 p.m. Sunday.
Reservations: accepted for parties of more than four.
Smoking: none.
by CNB