The Virginian-Pilot
                             THE VIRGINIAN-PILOT 
              Copyright (c) 1996, Landmark Communications, Inc.

DATE: Sunday, February 11, 1996              TAG: 9602080109
SECTION: FLAVOR                   PAGE: F1   EDITION: FINAL 
SOURCE: BY RUTH FANTASIA, ASSISTANT TO THE FOOD EDITOR 
                                             LENGTH: Medium:   55 lines

CORDIALLY YOURS LIQUEURS ADD SPIRIT AND UNUSUAL FLAVOR TO DISHES FOR THAT SPECIAL SOMEONE ON VALENTINE'S DAY

THE VALENTINE'S DAY menu can be a delicate decision. If the relationship is friendly, one wants to impress but not overdo. On the other hand, if the association is intimate, fanning the flame may be the goal.

Regardless of the romantic condition, cooking with liqueurs - or, shall we say, cordials for less familiar couples - can bring a spirit of refined taste to the table on Cupid's day, Wednesday.

Lest we confuse, liqueurs are distilled beverages noted for their high sugar content, according to ``The Joy of Cooking'' by Irma S. Rombauer and Marion Rombauer Becker (Bobbs-Merril Co., 1975). Common liqueurs include complex flavors such as Drambuie and B & B (Benedictine & Brandy). Cordials, are a subgroup of liqueurs with a singular flavor such as Kahlua (coffee) and Grand Marnier (orange).

A stroll through one of Virginia's larger liquor stores reveals up to 30 liqueurs in a seemingly endless array of colors. Chambord is deep red while Midori is bright green. Others, such as amaretto and creme de banana are shades of amber; Irish cream is a milky beige.

The price spectrum of liqueurs is as equally broad, ranging from $5 to $35 for a fifth. Among the most expensive is Godiva's chocolate liqueur.

Fortunately, a little liqueur goes a long way, so you usually can purchase small bottles. Look for sample sizes, for about $2 each.

Liqueurs are especially good for finishing off sauces, using as a base in souffles and flavoring creams, says Fred Teiss, former executive chef at the Founders Inn in Virginia Beach and now a chef-instructor at Johnson & Wales University in Norfolk.

``What you don't want to do is flame these,'' Teiss warns. ``They're too expensive to burn, and the alcohol content is very low. It's just like adding vanilla extract.''

Cream liqueurs, such as Baileys and other Irish creams, are good for flavoring whipped cream or adding to coffee, but because of their cream base, they don't cook well, Teiss says.

For your Valentine's Day dining, here are some recipes using liqueurs. Who knows? Once you get the hang of it, romantic dining may not be just an annual event.

Who knows? Once you get the hang of it, romantic dining may not be just an annual event. ILLUSTRATION: Color photo

VICKI CRONIS/The Virginian-Pilot

A romantically shaped serving of Bananas Foster Bread Pudding

includes not only creme de banana and Grand Marnier but also rum.

by CNB