THE VIRGINIAN-PILOT
Copyright (c) 1996, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: Sunday, February 18, 1996 TAG: 9602210616
SECTION: FLAVOR PAGE: F1 EDITION: FINAL
TYPE: Restaurant review
SOURCE: BY BROWN H. CARPENTER, STAFF WRITER
LENGTH: Medium: 95 lines
LOCALS WHO brave the cold to enjoy the Virginia Beach Oceanfront in the off-season are likely to work up an appetite.
Pogo's Seaside Grill at 40th Street and Atlantic Avenue is the ideal place to take the edge off that hunger.
Owner Jeff ``Pogo'' Parr and chef Ryan Murphy will welcome you with a menu of traditional fare. It's mostly seafood, but many entrees are tastily updated with trendy combinations of fresh herbs, chopped tomatoes, sun-dried tomatoes, garlic, mushrooms and more.
Pogo's is small and cozy. The aura is simple and beachy: latticework ceilings, pastel walls and green and pink floral (hibiscus) tablecloths.
Open just a little more than a year, the restaurant is at the lower North End of Virginia Beach, in the spot once occupied by Cafe Zoe.
Our party of four visited Pogo's on a recent Saturday evening.
We began our meal with a couple of appetizers, fried calamari ($5.95) and North End Crab Dip ($6.95).
The calimari was lightly fried, tasty but not greasy, and accompanied by a zesty marinara sauce fiery
enough to tempt the members of the local Hot Pepper Club but not at all painful. The dip needed more crab flavor.
The appetizer list should be fun for nostalgic grazers. It evokes memories of seafood menus from years ago: oysters and clams on the half-shell, oysters Rockefeller, shrimp cocktail, steamed shrimp, beer-battered shrimp, clams casino.
The soup of the day, also a Southern tradition, was she-crab, which we couldn't find room for this time.
For entrees, we chose three nightly specials and one dinner from the regular menu, Jamaican jerk grilled tuna.
Of the specials, our favorite was the tuna ($14.95) with rosemary, basil, sun-dried tomatoes, mushrooms and chopped fresh tomatoes. The herb and condiment blend was superb with the grilled fish.
Another special is an old Tidewater favorite - flounder stuffed with crab meat ($14.95). Pogo's embellished it with tomatoes and basil, a fine mix of the traditional with the modern.
Penne with chicken and shrimp ($13.95) was cooked with garlic, tomatoes, mozzarella and basil. It, too, was enjoyable, if a bit less creative.
Jerk grilled tuna ($13.95) was prepared with Caribbean spices, which were full-flavored and chili-peppery without searing the palate. The whole thing was smothered with sauteed bell peppers.
Chef Murphy is particularly adept at making meals eye-appealing. We liked the evergreen sprig of rosemary adorning many dishes.
Entrees include a fresh garden salad (a Caesar is $2 extra). Nonpasta orders also include one vegetable. This evening, the vegetable choices were garlic mashed potatoes or creamed spinach. We tried both.
The spinach was very good, cooked with just the right touch of onion and sour cream. The potatoes stuck to your ribs comfortably but could have used more garlic.
The bread at Pogo's was crustily French; the wine list unintimidating and moderately priced - most bottles under $15.
Our server tempted us with a dessert offer of Key lime pie but the kitchen was out of it. So we ordered an Oreo cheesecake, a rich fusion of sweet chocolate and mildly tart cream cheese, and a more timid chocolate cake filled with chocolate mousse ($3.50 each).
Pogo's is a great reason to visit the resort strip in or out of season, even if you don't feel like a stroll on the Boardwalk.
MEMO: Reviews are based on a single, unannounced visit by a party of two or
three, unless otherwise noted. The Virginian-Pilot pays for the
reviewer's meal and those of the guests. ILLUSTRATION: Color photos
ROY A. BAHLS
Pogo's Primo Tuna dish offers pan-seared tuna topped with tomatoes
and mushrooms, sauteed in white wine and butter.
Graphic
BILL OF FARE
Pogo's Seaside Grill, 40th Street and Atlantic Avenue, Virginia
Beach. 437-1827.
Cuisine: Seafood and pasta are emphasized, but several meat and
poultry entrees are offered. Generous use of fresh herbs and other
seasonings.
Atmosphere: Cozy, friendly and informal.
Prices: Nightly specials hover around $15. Pastas from $9.95 to
$13.95. Other menu standards, $8.95 (clam strips) to $19.95 (surf
'n' turf). Mediterranean grilled chicken salad ($5.95) and Caesar
salad with tuna, shrimp or salad ($6.95).
Hours: from 5 to 10 p.m. Tuesday through Sunday. Closed Monday.
Reservations: Recommended on weekends.
Smoking: Restricted to tables in the front.
by CNB