THE VIRGINIAN-PILOT
Copyright (c) 1996, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: Sunday, February 25, 1996 TAG: 9602280580
SECTION: FLAVOR PAGE: F1 EDITION: FINAL
TYPE: Restaurant review
SOURCE: BY DONNA REISS, RESTAURANT CRITIC
LENGTH: Long : 121 lines
BEFORE YOU reach the dining room at the Jefferson Hotel in Richmond, a spin through the lobbies is a tantalizing aperitif - gilt, glamour and convincing faux marble, a spectacular staircase and a statue of Thomas Jefferson, the president whose personal maitre d'hotel, Etienne Lemaire, gave the restaurant its name.
The domed lobbies and wide spaces suggest the grand hotels of grand old movies. In fact, chef Jeff Langenfeld is no stranger to such settings, having worked at the Grand Hotel in Victoria-Jungfrau in Interlaken, Switzerland, and at the Grand Hotel in Washington, D.C. Among the honors he has received over the years is the recent five-diamond from the American Automobile Association, one of only 39 awarded to restaurants in the Americas and one of only three in Virginia. Among hotel-restaurant combinations so lauded, the Jefferson is one among 15.
The restaurant foyer, quietly lighted at night but cheery on sunny days, is surrounded by ``satellites'' that seat small parties, including the library with its dark woods, red appointments and old books, and by the large Valentine room, high-ceilinged, brass-and-gilt trimmed and bedecked in soothing buttery hues.
The look is luxurious. Pamper us, we thought as we settled into upholstered armchairs comfortable enough for an extended evening of fine dining. Our threesome found the ambiance deserving of accolades and the menu imaginative; unfortunately, neither food nor service on our single visit lived up to the first-class ranking.
One of the merits of Lemaire is its emphasis on regional foods. Peanut soup, for example, is a Virginia tradition. But Lemaire's was a blandly creamy blend lacking fresh peanut flavor. Golden mushroom soup benefited from the substantial texture of shiitakes but was otherwise unexceptional. Other soup choices were crab, corn and squash bisque and vegetable soup with black-eyed peas.
The most expensive starter ($12.75) was seared foie gras and a pleasing little compote of Virginia apple rhubarb crisp. Though distinguished by the generous serving of three slices of liver, it might have been better with another couple of seconds of searing to firm the center. Mozzarella with tomato and basil, smoked salmon on Vidalia onion tart, crab cakes, and focaccia with Asiago cheese and plum tomatoes also were listed as appetizers.
Salads and vegetables were especially nice and in many ways the best part of the meal. A simple green salad with a beautifully balanced balsamic vinaigrette and miniature yellow tomatoes was a perfect light starter. An evening special salad of braised baby fennel with tiny smoked scallops was refreshingly dressed with citrus vinaigrette.
Although the selective menu of main courses indicated an attentive and thoughtful kitchen supervisor and although the descriptions suggested some creative matching of textures and flavors, our main courses did not live up to expectations. Listed were Culpeper County buffalo rossini, peanut crusted venison, veal chop on Southern truffle mashed potatoes, and an all-vegetable special with mushrooms and pasta or couscous.
Each evening, a menu of chef's recommendations and featured wines by the glass is presented. On the night of our visit, a grilled tilapia fillet with angel hair pasta and lemony caviar sauce was one of three features; unfortunately, the two thin strips of acceptable white fish could not be elevated by the sauce to justify the $24 price tag.
Similarly pricey were the other entrees, the most moderate dishes just below $20. Several combinations were more appropriately matched to their more-than-$20 tabs. A mixed grill of duck and pheasant was satisfying, the duck cured in a bourbon-molasses blend that complemented its richness, the pheasant gently glazed with brandied peach. Another combination paired a fine tenderloin of beef with a well-balanced crab cake and a few shrimp. Both dinners were good.
Breads also were good; the selection included home-baked fruit bread and a bowl of souffle-style spoon bread to pass around the table. Vegetables were especially satisfying: a potpourri of baby carrots, baby zucchini, green bean threads and layered potatoes.
Rich house-made sweets were attractively proffered and enjoyable. Peanut-butter mousse pie with a chocolate layer served the local crop better than the soup had. Honey sweet-potato cheesecake and sugary poundcake with nuts and berries also made for happy endings.
Along with a lengthy wine list are evening specials, including a dozen wines by the glass and several in half bottles. Virginia wines are highlighted, but interestingly, The Jefferson house wines come not from Virginia's wineries but from California, which is better able to supply the volume needed for all the hotel's functions.
One snowy morning, I went to Lemaire for the breakfast buffet. Its offerings were typical of any good hotel: fresh fruits, eggs, breakfast meats, French toast and pastries. But the grits were flavorless and almost cold; the oatmeal was clumped in a warming tray. The syrup, however, was real maple, the bacon thick and smoky-sweet, the baking powder biscuits extraordinary, and the sausages not the tangy Southern kind but milder English bangers with soft middles and crispy casings. A carafe of coffee was brought to the table so I never ran out. My waiter and the host checked on me regularly.
Langenfeld is to be admired for providing fine new Southern fare in this spectacular setting. We wish him well in his endeavors to improve the food and service that will make the total experience more worthwhile.
MEMO: Reviews are based on a single, unannounced visit by a party of two or
three, unless otherwise noted. The Virginian-Pilot pays for the
reviewer's meal and those of the guests.
ILLUSTRATION: Graphic
BILL OF FARE
Lemaire at the Jefferson Hotel, Franklin and Adams streets,
Richmond. (804) 344-6366.
Cuisine: upscale new Southern with various Continental and other
regional influences.
Atmosphere: comfortably elegant; several dining areas with
individualized decor and large upholstered chairs, most with large
windows and soft curtains. Valet parking available.
Prices: breakfast a la carte averages $6, buffet is $9.95; lunch
a la carte $6.95 to $12.95, buffet is $10.95; dinner starters, soups
and salads $3.50 to $12.75; main dishes $18 to $25.
Hours: breakfast from 6:30 to 10 a.m. Monday through Friday, from
6:30 to 11 a.m. Saturday and Sunday; lunch from noon to 2 p.m.
Monday through Friday; dinner from 5:30 to 10 p.m. Monday through
Saturday.
Reservations: recommended for lunch; strongly advised for
dinner.
Smoking: 15 percent of seating.
by CNB