THE VIRGINIAN-PILOT
Copyright (c) 1996, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: Thursday, February 29, 1996 TAG: 9602280034
SECTION: FLAVOR PAGE: F1 EDITION: FINAL
SOURCE: By BETTY DOUGLASS, SPECIAL TO FLAVOR
LENGTH: Long : 102 lines
ARE YOU onion illiterate?
Here's an easy test.
1. When shopping for onions, do you automatically reach for ``storage'' varieties sold in sacks or bins?
2. Do you shy away from names like ``shallots'' and ``scallions,'' because your family's favorites are yellow and round?
3. Do you think leeks sprout from plumbing under the kitchen sink?
If you answered ``yes'' to any of the above, it's time to expand your onion IQ, and sample some delicious recipes along the way.
Onions have dazzled cooks for eons, as a seasoning in almost all cuisines and as a vegetable in many. Flavors range from sweet to strong, depending on variety and growing conditions.
Most common are the yellow and white onions readily found in markets. But others include leeks, shallots, scallions, green onions, pearl onions, red onions and the regional sweet onions like Vidalias from Georgia.
Onions are low in calories: Three-quarters cup chopped onion yields about 35 calories. They're also loaded with vitamins and minerals, such as vitamin C, the B vitamins, potassium, phosphorous and calcium.
Leeks, a longtime favorite in many European countries are becoming more popular in the United States and are available in most supermarkets in Hampton Roads.
``Looking like a giant scallion, the leek is related to both the garlic and the onion, though its flavor and fragrance are milder and more subtle,'' writes Susan Herbst in ``Food Lover's Companion'' (Barron's, 1990).
Like their cousins, long, lean leeks are low in calories and high in vitamins A and C. Look for long, white, unwrinkled stalks about an inch in diameter, with bright green tops.
Leeks usually are available year-round, but they are best in late fall and winter.
Do not wash or trim leeks until you are ready to use them. Store fresh leeks in a plastic bag in the dehydrator of your refrigerator for up to a week.
``Leeks can be cooked whole as a vegetable or chopped and used in salads, soups and a multitude of other dishes,'' Herbst says.
When cleaning them, cut off the root end and most of the green leaves. If you like, cut them in half lengthwise and run them under cold water to remove grit and sand. Drain well and use as directed in your recipe.
Because leeks have a full flavor all their own, it is best not to substitute them in recipes calling for other onions.
Shallots
Shallots are lovely and small, forming almost a heart shape similar to garlic. Their cloves, or clusters, range from gray-white to tan to red. They offer a delicate onion flavor, usually very sweet, and can be used in the same way as onions.
Buy shallots in packages of a few ounces or in bulk. I look for firm shallots that are not sprouting, and a papery red-brown or yellow-brown skin.
Keep shallots in a cool, dry place with some circulation, such as a basket. Stored properly, they should keep for up to a month.
Use them as directed in recipes. Like garlic, they burn easily; so pay close attention while cooking.
Scallions and green onions
Green onions - small white bulbs with long green tops - are young versions of bulb onions. Scallions, which have not yet developed bulbs, are the same thickness from root to top - but they have not yet developed a bulb.
When purchasing either, look for bright, healthy color. Before storing, cut off any wilted tops and dry them if they are wet from misting. Store, unwrapped, in the hydrator of your refrigerator.
If you need to keep them for more than a few days, take the bands off the bunches and seal the loose onions in a perforated plastic vegetable bag. Sort through them every now and then to remove any that have begun to spoil.
Red onions
Red onions, often eaten raw and used for garnish, are not as mild as yellow onions but they are sweet. They lose some of their deep coloring when cooked.
Red onions and other sweet onions can be made less strong by soaking them in ice water for about 30 minutes after cutting or slicing.
When buying red onions, look for firm specimens without sprouts. Store them in a cool, dry place until you're ready to use them.
Vidalia onions
The most familiar sweet onion in this market is the Vidalia.
Other sweet onions hail from various parts of the country. These seasonals don't keep as well as storage onions. Put them in a cool, dry, well-ventilated place, or wrap the dry onions individually in tissue paper, paper towel or newspaper and store them in the refrigerator for up to a month.
Here are some recipes to help acquaint you with the less-familiar onions. ILLUSTRATION: Color photos by Richard L. Dunston
Leeks
Red Onions
Shallots
Scallions
by CNB