THE VIRGINIAN-PILOT
Copyright (c) 1996, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: Sunday, March 3, 1996 TAG: 9603050369
SECTION: FLAVOR PAGE: F1 EDITION: FINAL
SOURCE: BY RUTH FANTASIA, ASSISTANT TO THE FOOD EDITOR
LENGTH: Long : 109 lines
A MONUMENT OF a restaurant - with wide verandas, several dining rooms, high ceilings and a massive stone fireplace - Brewer's East Inn is a grand, Savannah-style setting for breakfast, lunch or dinner. Built on 3 acres of the Brewer farm, adjacent to Virginia Beach's Municipal Center, the family-owned and operated Inn touts ``Fine Family Dining.''
During two recent visits, some offerings were innovative while others catered to the meat-and-potato-lover. In all instances, the portions were ample.
For Sunday brunch, Brewer's offers an all-you-can-eat platter of scrambled eggs, pancakes, sausage links, bacon, grits and biscuits served family-style ($6.50 adults, $3.25 children 10 and under). All items were nicely prepared; our daughter proclaimed the bacon ``the best I've ever had.''
There's none of that getting-up-and-get-it-yourself. The staff will serve you large white platters as long as you can eat.
For those after a fancier cuisine, the brunch menu includes breakfast appetizers such as ambrosia ($2.75) and chilled seafood Romanov ($4.95).
The Baked Brie With Pecan-Caramel Sauce ($4.50) is served with fruit and toast rounds. The contrast of rich cheese with the fresh fruit makes a perfect starter.
A serving of Belgian waffles ($4.85) consisted of three rounds served with maple syrup and butter. The waffles were light on the inside, crispy and golden on the outside. Unfortunately, waffles cool quickly, and the chilled butter didn't melt. Hot serving plates and syrup would have helped.
An endless supply of coffee and the relaxed atmosphere made our Sunday brunch pleasurable.
The Saturday morning breakfast menu offers less-fussy fare, such as French toast ($3.25), biscuit sandwiches ($2.50) and made-to-order omelets ($4.65).
On an earlier visit, we sampled offerings from chef Todd Brown's recently revised dinner menu.
For appetizers, we chose stuffed mushrooms ($5.75) and French onion soup au gratin ($3.50). The soup was served with the classic accompaniment of croutons and Swiss cheese, as we expected. Instead of the usual bread crumb mixture, the mushrooms are stuffed with a tasty combination of crab, goat cheese, roasted red peppers and spinach. We only wished for more crab.
The men in our party hoped to start with steamed clams and oysters ($4.50 and $4.85 respectively per half-dozen) but these offerings were not available. The gentlemen had to be content with hot wings ($4.50) and potato skins ($4.95).
Entrees are served with choice of soup or salad, and the chef's choice of vegetables. On this night, chef Brown picked mashed sweet potatoes with pecans and fresh beets to go with each meal.
Leg of lamb ($14.95) was encrusted with garlic and a hint of mint; it was served sliced. Juicy and tender, the entree earned rave reviews from our group. The fish of the day (market price), is offered blackened, broiled, baked, grilled and bronzed. We chose blackened salmon and were pleased with our choice. The fish was prepared as Paul Prud-homme intended when he invented the technique, blackened by caramelized sugars in the coating, not burned.
Pan-seared pork medallions ($13.95) also were well-prepared. The menu describes the dish as two Lean Generation pork medallions over sauteed peppers, mushrooms, fried potatoes, spring onions and roasted garlic. It sounds enticing, but nowhere did the menu mention - nor did our server - that the peppers are of the jalapeno variety. To make it hotter, pepper seeds and stems were found in the juices beneath the pork.
Our final choice was the 8-ounce ``baseball cut'' filet mignon. This was flavorful and tender but undercooked, even though we ordered it medium-rare.
Desserts range from fruit crisp $2.50) to Tiramisu With Kahula ($3.75).
Service on both occasions was earnest but not polished. The dining room staff, which seemed to try its best to please, might benefit from more training.
With experience and a bit of refinement, Brewer's East Inn has the potential to be a highlight of Hampton Roads dining. We'll visit again - maybe in summer when we can dine on the veranda.
MEMO: Reviews are based on a single, unannounced visit by a party of two or
three, unless otherwise noted. The Virginian-Pilot pays for the
reviewer's meal and those of the guests.
ILLUSTRATION: Color photos
ROY A BAHLS
Herb encrusted Leg of lamb is char-grilled, sliced and served with
roast garlic mashed potatoes at Brewer's East Inn.
Graphic
BILL OF FARE
Brewer's East Inn, 2484 N. Landing Road, Virginia Beach.
427-5880.
Cuisine: meat and potatoes with an upscale twist, Cajun
offerings, regional seafood and family-style selections.
Atmosphere: casual yet elegant; several dining areas, all with
warm wood decor, open floor plan and high ceilings; main dining room
highlighted by a stone fireplace. Outdoor dining available when
weather permits. Entertainment 5:30 to 8:30 p.m. Fridays.
Prices: Saturday breakfast a la carte averages $4,
all-you-can-eat Sunday brunch is $6.50, adults, and $2, children;
lunch a la carte from $4.15 to $5.50; dinner starters, soups and
salads from $2.75 to $6.95; main dishes from $8 to $17.
All-you-can-eat nightly specials from $7.95 to $14.95, adults, $2,
children.
Hours: breakfast from 7 to 10:30 a.m. Saturday; Sunday brunch
from 9 a.m. to 3 p.m.; lunch from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. Monday through
Friday; dinner from 5 to 10 p.m. Monday through Saturday and from 4
to 9 p.m. Sunday.
Reservations: recommended.
Smoking: 20 percent of seating.
by CNB