THE VIRGINIAN-PILOT  
              Copyright (c) 1996, Landmark Communications, Inc.

DATE: Thursday, March 7, 1996                TAG: 9603060099
SECTION: FLAVOR                   PAGE: F1   EDITION: FINAL 
COLUMN: MORSELS
SOURCE: RUTH FANTASIA
                                             LENGTH: Medium:   52 lines

YOU DON'T HAVE TO EAT OUT TO EAT POORLY

``WHAT DO you want for breakfast, Ruthie?'' Pappa Joe would say.

``A Hershey bar and a Coke.''

``OK.''

My grandfather would shrug on his coat and hat and walk a mile to White's Store in what was once rural Princess Anne County.

Those were the good old days.

In the '60s, before the Food Police.

Now, the Center for Science in the Public Interest is targeting restaurant breakfast foods like the kinds served at Denny's, Shoney's and IHOP.

What I can't figure out is why a meal of two eggs, bacon, sausage, hash browns, biscuits and coffee has more fat and calories at a restaurant than it does in my kitchen. Do restaurants use fattier bacon fat than I? Do the Food Police think we don't eat this way at home?

They may be partly right; I don't eat a huge breakfast every day. But I might be inclined to cook a big morning meal one Sunday out of six.

After all, some of the things we do eat daily are just as bad.

Haven't they heard of doughnuts? How about sticky buns? Or coffeecake? Or French toast?

``I eat cereal every morning,'' you may say.

Oh yes, those sugar-laden Cocoa Krispies, Froot Loops, Frosted Mini Wheats and Honey Nut Cheerios are very good for you.

Oatmeal may be good for the heart. It helps lower cholesterol - before we top it with brown sugar and whole milk.

Of course, you can't beat a good bagel.

Especially those M&M chocolate-chip ``boutique'' bagels. Even if you don't have a sweet tooth, there's always butter or cream cheese to spread.

And what about those frozen sausage biscuits in the grocery store? Or the microwavable waffles we're so fond of, smothered in butter and syrup?

I see folks wandering into the office with cupcakes and sodas from the vending machine.

Pappa Joe would have approved.

Although he didn't live with us for long - he died while I was still a little girl - Pappa Joe taught me two things: You don't have to eat out to eat badly. And life is short. Enjoy it. ILLUSTRATION: FILE COLOR PHOTO

Dors French toast in a restaurant have more fat and calories than

the kind you make at home?

by CNB