The Virginian-Pilot
                             THE VIRGINIAN-PILOT 
              Copyright (c) 1996, Landmark Communications, Inc.

DATE: Thursday, March 21, 1996               TAG: 9603200031
SECTION: FLAVOR                   PAGE: F1   EDITION: FINAL 
COLUMN: Morsels  
SOURCE: RUTH FANTASIA
                                             LENGTH: Medium:   84 lines

DON'T LET STUDY SWAY YOU TO A JUNKY DIET

IT DOESN'T take much to turn the food world upside down.

A study announced in San Francisco last week suggests artificial flavorings may be good for you.

The reason, the Associated Press reports, is ``artificial flavors contain salicylates, a chemical cousin of aspirin. And aspirin is known to reduce the risk of heart attacks by preventing blood clots.''

In presenting the information, Lillian M. Ingster of the National Center for Health Statistics in Hyattsville, Md., said: `` `We are presenting what we consider to be a plausible hypothesis, but it needs a lot more exploration,'

The news was touted as a victory for junk-food junkies. One news story, for example, was headlined ``A Twinkie a Day Keeps the Doctor Away.''

Are such artificially flavored treats as steak-and-onion-flavored chips and chocolate-flavored cereals not as bad for us as previously thought?

Before you go out and declare a Moon Pie and RC Cola the world's most perfect meal, remember: Moderation in everything.

``Our catch-phrase around here is that the jury is still out,'' said Frances Casper, staff nutritionist at Consultants in Nutritional Services in Norfolk. ``A small, narrow study for a short period of time doesn't prove anything and should not encourage people to change some of their thinking about their dietary needs.''

In other words, don't give up the broccoli, spinach, green beans, whole grains and tofu for a diet chock-full of artificial flavorings.

But the next time your mother-in-law admonishes: ``You really shouldn't be eating that,'' or the office health freak taunts you about your calorie-laden lunch, simply say, ``PHHHHHHT!'' REAL RISOTTO

You know a dish has become popular when variations of the original show up on restaurant menus. Such is the case with risotto, the creamy Italian rice dish.

Last week I even sampled a ``risotto'' made with orzo instead of rice, combined with raisins and squishy stuff that was allegedly mascarpone cheese.

But true risotto is made from arborio rice.

``The best risotto comes from knowing when the rice is done - and that only comes from experience,'' said Lynne Rossetto Kasper, author of ``The Splendid Table: Recipes of Emilia-Romagna, the Heartland of Northern Italian Food'' (William Morrow, 1992). In a recent interview with The Washington Post, Kasper shared four tricks to good risotto:

Canned broth is too salty and not flavorful enough. If you must use canned, improve it by simmering it for 30 minutes with broiled onion, celery, carrot, parsley, garlic and a pinch of dried basil. Strain it before using in the risotto.

Use the right rice. That means the Italian arborio, but if it isn't available - or you suspect it's old - American medium-grain rice can be substituted. The texture is close, although it doesn't have the fragrance of the Italian rice.

Never cover risotto. This will steam the rice and will not produce a creamy consistency.

Use only good-quality cheese. Freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano is ideal, but a good-quality Asiago or fontina is acceptable. WAFFLE CEREAL

The only thing sweeter than its Granny-like spokesperson is Post's new Waffle Crisp cereal.

The crunchy miniature waffles are made from corn, wheat and oats with a maple-syrup coating. Many of our informal tasters found them to be overly sweet.

The suggested price for a 13.75-ounce box of Waffle Crisp is $3.59. BUNNIES MULTIPLYING

Talk about sweet: About 55 million chocolate bunnies will be produced for Easter this year, according to the National Confectioners Association and Chocolate Manufacturers Association.

In addition, candy companies will make 13.5 billion jelly beans. ILLUSTRATION: Color photo

HUY NGUYEN/The Virginian-Pilot

A new study suggests artificial flavorings may be good for you.

by CNB