THE VIRGINIAN-PILOT
Copyright (c) 1996, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: Thursday, March 28, 1996 TAG: 9603260133
SECTION: NORFOLK COMPASS PAGE: 20 EDITION: FINAL
COLUMN: ON THE TOWN
SOURCE: SAM MARTINETTE
LENGTH: Medium: 84 lines
Tracey and David Holmes of Magnolia Steak in Ghent understand one of the prime restaurant axioms: a restaurant that never changes risks losing clientele to new competitors.
So they are constantly working on fine-tuning both the Magnolia menu and the physical plant of the restaurant itself.
The fireplace added to the dining room last Thanksgiving has proven to be a magnet for diners.
``Without a doubt it's the most popular area of the restaurant,'' David Holmes said. ``It has warmed the dining room up.''
Holmes isn't just talking aesthetics. The floors were stripped back years ago to the original tile that graced the floors of the old Master's Drug Store.
``We've always had problems with the floor and keeping the room warm,'' he said. ``As cold as it's been this winter, we haven't had that problem because the fire really warms up the entire room.''
The upper level dining area of the lounge has been partially enclosed, with a bank of '40s-era glass blocks along one side to buffer the restaurant's entrance door. The upper level dining room has an open doorway and windows into the lounge. The walls don't reach the ceiling, allowing air circulation to aid two new giant smoke-eaters. The upper level is now the smoking section of the dining area and is cigar-friendly, according to David Holmes.
``These new smoke-eaters are five times stronger than the old ones that had been here since Master's (Drug Store),'' he pointed out.
The area also provides the privacy needed for private parties and luncheon meetings or celebrations.
Magnolia has probably the biggest steak in town, the new Porterhouse for Two - 40 ounces of a bone-in strip and filet cut, seasoned and seared and served over hot garlic butter. At $22 per person, that's a bit over $1 per ounce for what Tracey Holmes describes as an eating event.
``It's more of a weekend thing, when a couple wants a romantic, relaxed meal by the fireplace,'' she said.
If Tracey Holmes has a favorite it may well be the new Pork Chop Magnolia ($13), a double-cut Smithfield Lean Generation 12-ounce chop encrusted with Provencal spice, pan-sauteed and finished with an apple cider reduction sauce.
``It takes about 20 minutes to prepare, but I love it,'' she said.
Also new is an Angus beef hickory-smoked brisket, placed on a potato roll with caramelized onions ($7), and a barbecued turkey burrito ($7) with coleslaw and Cheddar rolled in a grilled flour tortilla and served with black beans and rice. The brisket has been on the lunch menu and has proven so popular that a dinner version was created.
As for the lunch menu, a new oyster ``Po Boy'' sandwich, with a half-dozen lightly fried oysters served on a garlic-butter bun with red pepper mayo and lettuce ($5.50) sounds great to me. Also new is a flounder sandwich ($6) or platter ($9), with the flounder dipped in buttermilk and seasoned flour and cooked in peanut oil; and a veggie and feta cheese salad with an assortment of grilled and chilled vegetables over leaf lettuce topped with feta and a balsamic vinaigrette ($5).
A jumbo flounder, served with the house jalapeno tartar sauce, has been added to the dinner menu ($13); as well as King Crab legs ($23 for a large serving of split legs and $13 for a half-portion). The seafood trilogy (bronzed jumbo sea scallops, barbecued shrimp and a salmon cake - $14) should sell well. The seafood and the pork chop come with a pair of vegetables or a salad and vegetable.
During a recent visit we filled up on the oysters of the day (price varies depending on preparation), which could be a half-dozen, roasted and topped with sour cream and caviar ($5) or Maryland oysters topped with a spinach and bacon blend in the traditional Rockefeller style ($6). We also had the sausage sampler ($6) of duck and Surry sausage over sauteed red cabbage and apples. Served with mustard, the sampler is a great appetizer or complement to one of the many micro brew beers offered or a glass of wine from the much-expanded wine list.
Magnolia Steak (corner of Princess Anne and Colley, 625-0400) is open for lunch Monday through Friday and dinner only on Saturday and Sunday.
There will be a micro brew beer tasting Monday, April 1, at Open Wide Restaurant to benefit the Foodbank of Southeastern Virginia. Tickets for the event, which will take place from 5 to 9 p.m., are $20 and provide samplings of micro brew beers new to both Open Wide and the Hampton Roads area. For information, call the Foodbank (624-1333) or Open Wide (122-124 Granby St., 533-9153). by CNB