THE VIRGINIAN-PILOT
Copyright (c) 1996, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: Sunday, March 31, 1996 TAG: 9603290084
SECTION: HOME PAGE: G2 EDITION: FINAL
COLUMN: GARDENING
SOURCE: ROBERT STIFFLER
LENGTH: Medium: 67 lines
My husband and I have had the worst luck in growing camellias. We brought one back from Atlanta last year, and it has done nothing since we put it in the ground. We are hoping it will do something this year. Is it possible to grow camellias from seed? We have seeds from camellias my father-in-law grew. We would like to find how to get them to grow.
Mary E. Tingle, Virginia Beach
Most gardeners find camellias easy to grow, but they must be planted shallow, have good drainage and grow best in semi-shade. Under tall pine trees, where they receive the mulch of dropping pine needles, is ideal. Most problems with camellias are caused by people planting them too deep.
Don't be concerned that your newly planted Atlanta camellia didn't grow last year. Plants often require a year to adjust to a new site. With luck, it will grow new foliage this season.
Camellias can be grown from seed. Seeds that drop off the mother plant often sprout into seedlings. For the seeds you have, score the outer shell with a knife and bury about one inch deep in soil. Camellias from seed do not produce the same as the plant from which they came. You might get a single-blooming plant of no value, or you could get a good blooming seedling. You never know.
In January, you helped Rena Creef of Chesapeake by sending her a list of plants that will grow in wet soil. I have the same problem and will appreciate a copy of that list in the addressed, stamped envelope enclosed.
A. Kumar, Norfolk
There are several such lists and you are being sent one from Ohio's Dawes Arboretum. Trees include red maple, service berry (Amelanchier), river birch. Shrubs include fringetree (Chionanthus), clethra, inkberry, winterberry and bayberry. Perennials include marsh marigold, rose mallow, cardinal flower, bee-balm and many ferns.
I am new to the area and have questions concerning tomatoes and onions. Most that I have read recommends setting out onions four to five weeks before the last frost. Is this accurate and when does the last frost usually occur? For tomatoes, the recommendations are to set them out 10 days after the last frost. Is that accurate? Can you suggest tomato and onion varieties that do well in this area?
Mrs. R.B. Miller, Chesapeake
The recommendations you have read are generally correct. You can plant onions in late February or early March. Most folks plant onion sets, and you can choose white, red or yellow onions. If you want them to grow large onions for fall harvesting, use onion plants or seed. The choices are the same as for sets.
As to tomatoes, I think it's risky to put them in a garden before April 15 unless you give them some cold protection. Meteorologist Duane Harding, who gardens extensively, says he recommends to people that they put out just two tomato plants on April 1. If we have a freeze, they've lost two plants, but if the weather stays warm, they'll have the earliest tomatoes in their neighborhood.
It's hard to beat Better Boy as the variety to grow, but some people prefer Celebrity. There are so many tomato varieties, your choice can be personal preference and whether you want them for fresh use, canning or freezing. MEMO: No gardening questions will be taken over the phone. Write to Robert
Stiffler, The Virginian-Pilot, 150 W. Brambleton Ave., Norfolk, Va.
23510. Answers will be published on a space-available basis. For an
earlier reply, send a self-addressed, stamped envelope. by CNB