THE VIRGINIAN-PILOT
Copyright (c) 1996, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: Sunday, April 28, 1996 TAG: 9604270050
SECTION: DAILY BREAK PAGE: E1 EDITION: FINAL
SERIES: TRAVEL: THE OUTER BANKS
SOURCE: BY JOHN HARPER, SPECIAL TO THE VIRGINIAN-PILOT
LENGTH: Long : 141 lines
IN THE PAST two years, the Outer Banks has experienced a culinary revolution that has delighted locals. But the steady stream of visitors may be confused.
These seasons of change have produced new restaurants with new chefs, old restaurants with new chefs, new menus and new concepts.
Checking the scorecard, dozens of restaurants have changed ownership or management, and at least 20 new restaurants are revved up for the 1996 summer season.
``People should want for nothing this summer,'' says Outer Banks Restaurant Association President Carol Ann Angelos. ``It seems like everywhere there could be a restaurant, there is one.''
And while the Outer Banks is probably best known for its seafood, vacationers can sample cuisine from around the world in the 185 eateries on the barrier islands. < ``You name it, we have it,'' Angelos says. ``We have Chinese, Mexican, French, German, Italian, even Australian.''
Health-conscious diners will have more choices this summer. Many chefs are adjusting menus, offering several low-fat/low-cholesterol and vegetarian entrees.
So fasten your seatbelts and join me for a north-to-south sampling of the newcomers.
Grouper's Grille and Wine Bar in Corolla is new this summer. Owned and operated by the folks who run the famed Cafe Alpine in Breckenridge, Colo., Grouper's brings tapas to the Outer Banks. The concept allows diners to use small plates of food to start or build a meal.
The airy beach bistro features an eclectic menu similar to the one of the award-winning Cafe Alpine: plenty of international dishes enlivened by special sauces and spices.
Wine lovers can sample more than 40 varieties by the glass. In addition, Grouper's sells more than 100 types by the bottle.
Dress is casual, and reservations are suggested.
John Kotch spent three winters in the U.S. Virgin Islands learning all facets of the restaurant business before opening his Fish Bones Raw Bar and Restaurant midway through the summer of 1995.
The 1,980-square-foot eatery in Duck, with a 36-foot oak bar, has nine tables and seats 42. Large bay windows all around allow plenty of sunshine in.
``We tried to bring something different to Duck,'' says the 35-year-old Kotch. ``This is really an Outer Banks raw bar.''
Offered at Fish Bones are fresh North Carolina raw or steamed shrimp, live or steamed crabs, steamed oysters and clams, and crab legs.
Chef Chris O'Brien owns the bragging rights for clam chowder. His concoction took first place in the 1995 ``Outer Banks Chowder Cookoff.''
The casual, yet upscale, raw bar and restaurant has entertainment every night of the week. And new this year is a late-night sushi bar.
Fish Bones is open for lunch and dinner.
Ocean Boulevard, on the Beach Road in Kitty Hawk, is one of the most exciting new restaurants to open in years. It's from the same people who own and operate the Blue Point in Duck. Enough said.
Opened in September, Ocean Boulevard occupies the former Virginia Dare Hardware Store. Remodelers have transformed the building into a cozy, intimate eatery.
Plenty of food, glorious food here. Watch the chefs in the open kitchen prepare a plethora of pastas, as well as beef, seafood and chicken dishes. Selections are prepared with homegrown herbs and spices.
Ocean Boulevard's wine list contains more than 100 selections, many of which are served by the glass.
The after-dinner experience is also delightful. In addition to the six fresh desserts, a full line of coffee drinks and herbal teas is available.
Reservations are recommended.
First some bad news. Papagayo's is gone. Now the good news. The ever-prolific John Kirchmier, who owns the just-down-the-street Goombay's Grille, has purchased the former Croatan Inn and has turned it into Quagmire's. Does the name sound familiar? It should. Quagmire's was the original name for what is now Tortugua's Lie, which Kirchmier helped open. When he left, he took the Quagmire's name with him.
Kirchmier has already remodeled the upstairs bar, putting in large windows for a panoramic view of the Atlantic.
Fans of Papagayo's will be glad to know that Quagmire's has retained 10 entrees from the former tenant's menu. Quag's offers plenty of fun and games. In back of the building are a volleyball court, a horseshoe pit and ring toss.
And during the summer months, live acoustic music will be offered.
Flying Fish Cafe in Kill Devil Hills is new for 1996. Owners George Price and John Xenakis have completely remodeled the former Osprey Island Grille.
Opening in mid-May, the new beach bistro will feature mid-scale American and Mediterranean cuisine. Featured menu items include gourmet pot pie, roasted chicken, fresh salmon and several vegetarian dishes.
Chefs Billy Price and Bob Vardzel will offer fresh Mediterranean pizza every day.
Flying Fish Cafe will have 11 booths, 10 tables and will seat 90. Outside dining is also available. Wine expert Price will offer 40 wines by the glass.
Open all year, Flying Fish Cafe takes reservations for dinner.
The Basnight family of Manteo opened Lone Cedar Cafe just a few weeks ago. The casual, upscale eatery on the Manteo-Nags Head Causeway takes its name from a former barrier island hunt club.
Diners enjoy a sound view from every table. Open for lunch and dinner, Lone Cedar Cafe offers plenty of soups, sandwiches and salads on its lunch menu. A grilled marinated tuna sandwich and a prime rib melt are two of the tastier lunch items.
Dinner entrees from the grill include fresh tuna steak, tequila tuna, filet mignon, and the Lone Cedar Mixed Grille, which includes marinated tuna, honey Dijon chicken breast and filet mignon with wild mushroom topping. All entrees are served with garden salad, choice of dressing, bread basket with butter and choice of potato, fresh vegetable or pasta.
Plenty of fried or broiled seafood is also available. All of the fried seafood is lightly dusted in flour or cracker meal and deep fried. The broiled items are cooked with butter.
Breaking wide open this spring is the new Surfriders Grill in Rodanthe. Owned by local surfers, it's decorated with antique surfboards and photographs of big-time groovy surferdudes.
Surfriders Grill has a wide variety of appetizers and foods that incorporate flavors from around the world.
Fish tacos, personalized pizzas, gourmet sandwiches and vegetarian dishes are all on the menu.
Need we add that the atmosphere is casual?
Ocracoke Island has a new restaurant. It's called Cockle Creek, and Hyde County Commissioner David Styron and his wife, Kari, own the place.
They do most of the cooking themselves. The little Italian seafood cafe's dinner items include fresh-cut steaks, ravioli stuffed with cheese, grilled swordfish and homemade lasagna and pizzas. Each meal is accompanied by a baked potato or french fries and salad or soup.
Other newcomers and changed faces include: Keeper's Galley in Kitty Hawk, which is now owned and operated by the Dunes Restaurant's Rufus and Roxie Pritchard, Dirty Dick's Crab House in Kill Devil Hills, Mulligan's Oceanfront Grille in Nags Head, George's Junction in Nags Head, Lance's in Nags Head, Atlantis in Nags Head, Full Moon Cafe on the Manteo waterfront, Anna Livia's in Manteo, Top Dog Cafe in Waves, Mako Mikes in Kill Devil Hills and Creekside Cafe in Ocracoke.
Many visitors will stick with their old favorites, of course, revisiting the eateries that have been around for years. Among the standbys is Owens restaurant, which is celebrating its 50th anniversary this summer. ILLUSTRATION: Color photo by DREW C. WILSON, The Virginian-Pilot
A Restaurant by George in Nags Head has received a face lift and a
new name: George's Junction.
by CNB