The Virginian-Pilot
                             THE VIRGINIAN-PILOT 
              Copyright (c) 1996, Landmark Communications, Inc.

DATE: Sunday, May 5, 1996                    TAG: 9605030063
SECTION: DAILY BREAK              PAGE: E3   EDITION: FINAL 
SOURCE: STEPHEN HARRIMAN
                                             LENGTH: Medium:   83 lines

WEEKEND GETAWAY: URBANNA IS NOT JUST OYSTERS ANYMORE

I SAY Urbanna. You say oysters. It's like Smithfield and ham, Suffolk and peanuts. In Virginia, Urbanna means oysters - though NOT, I hasten to add, to the exclusion of all those other wonderful places that serve up the Chesapeake Bay delicacy.

But Urbanna is not just oysters. Not anymore. The folks in the little waterfront town - and their Middlesex County neighbors in Saluda and Deltaville as well - are celebrating Heritage Day on Saturday in conjunction with Virginia Heritage Tourism Weeks. These are times when communities will present activities and events that showcase their people, their history and their special heritage.

Established in 1680 as a port on the Rappahannock River, the town has been called the most beautiful waterfront town in Virginia.

In Urbanna, Heritage Day means boat tours of Urbanna Creek, guided walking tours, musical entertainment, a unique waterman exhibit, a photography exhibit and visits to a working crabhouse.

See: Urbanna is crabs, too. You really ought to see this place, Paynes' Crab House. Before it's too late. It's run by sisters Beatrice Taylor and Catherine Via, who make their living in this fast-disappearing business.

In nearby Saluda there will be a special ceremony on the courthouse green to introduce a new guidebook, ``Rivers and Roads of Middlesex County.'' Guest speaker is Alf Mapp Jr., eminent professor emeritus at Old Dominion University. Visitors can view the Middlesex County Museum exhibit of sketches of early ships and workboats at the Old Clerk's Office.

And just so you know, the Urbanna Oyster Festival is always the first weekend in November - Nov. 1-2 this year.

Urbanna and Saluda are about an hour-and-a-half drive from South Hampton Roads, via I-64 and U.S. 17.

For Urbanna info: (804) 758-2613. For Virginia Heritage Tourism Weeks (May 4-19) statewide info: (804) 786-3143 or (804) 371-8168. HERITAGE, TOO

A weekend getaway doesn't suit? There are Heritage Tourism Weeks events right here in South Hampton Roads.

Tonight at 7, Norfolk Festevents is presenting Big Bands on the Bay, celebrating an era gone by, at Ocean View Park.

Tuesday, there's Norfolk Afoot, a one-hour guided walking tour of downtown sponsored by the Chrysler Museum of Art and Historic Houses, exploring African-American history, architecture and city history. Departing from Nauticus lobby at 10 a.m. $5. Info: (804) 664-6283.

Also Tuesday in Portsmouth, and again May 14, Olde Towne Lantern Tours, an 8 p.m. guided walking tour of what has been called the largest collection of architecturally diverse homes on the East Coast. Info: (804) 393-5111.

Every Wednesday in May, ``Norfolk Secret Garden'' (the restored 18th century garden at the Willoughby-Baylor House) will be alive with music, hospitality and picnic lunches (noon to 1:30, weather permitting). Norfolk Master Gardners will be selling plants and herbs and answering questions, and you can reserve a box lunch by calling (804) 664-6283.

Thursday in Portsmouth, and again May 16, Historic Churches in Olde Towne, another guided walking tour, 6-8 p.m. NO NEED TO PACK

The sixth annual National Nude Art Show, Sale and Open House is scheduled Saturday and next Sunday (10 to 4 each day) at White Tail Park, Virginia's family nudist resort between Zuni and Ivor, just off U.S. 460 and Va. 635.

The nudists realize that attendance might be a problem for those of you who are really into art but just don't like to take your clothes off in front of people until you've at least been properly introduced. So, during Open House hours, visitors are welcome to stay clothed.

There's no charge to view the art and to find out what clothes-free recreation is all about. Info: (804) 859-6123. EMBASSY TOURS

Many foreign embassies in Washington, D.C., will be open Saturday for the 50th annual Goodwill Embassy Tour. Tickets are $25 in advance, $30 on tour day. There will be free shuttle buses and a cultural and historical lesson at each stop. Info: (202) 636-4225, ext. 1255. MEMO: Travel-wise is compiled from wire-service reports, news releases, trade

journals, books, magazines and the deepest recesses of the writer's

mind. Send comments and questions to Travel-wise, The Virginian-Pilot,

Norfolk, Va. 23501-0449; phone (804) 446-2904. by CNB