The Virginian-Pilot
                             THE VIRGINIAN-PILOT 
              Copyright (c) 1996, Landmark Communications, Inc.

DATE: Sunday, May 12, 1996                   TAG: 9605100068
SECTION: HOME                     PAGE: G3   EDITION: FINAL 
COLUMN: GARDENING
SOURCE: ROBERT STIFFLER
                                             LENGTH: Long  :  138 lines

APPLY MULCH AFTER SEEDLINGS HAVE SPROUTED

After planting seed for flowers or vegetables, when do I apply a mulch? Do I wait until the seed has sprouted or can I apply a layer of mulch immediately after planting the seed? Can I use the new weed barriers to cover my 4-by-4-foot square and simply make a hole when planting the seed?

In your column several months ago, you mentioned the address for a book on how to grow 100 pounds of tomatoes from an inexpensive foam box. Could you send the address?

Jeffrey R. Putnam, Virginia Beach

I would not put mulch on until after seeds have sprouted and shown some growth. Mulch will keep the soil cool, and you want it to be warm to germinate seeds. There's no hurry about getting mulch around the new plants. I've never used weed barriers, but recommendations are to punch holes in them for bedding plants. It would seem that you could do the same thing when planting seeds.

The book about growing tomatoes in a foam box is ``100 Pounds of Tomatoes Out of an Inexpensive Foam Box,'' by Leopold Klein. You can write him at 103 Putney Road, Valley Stream, N.Y. 11580. Call (516) 825-3595.

I have six beautiful Christmas cactus but not one has bloomed or even had a bud. What is wrong?

Freda M. Laughorn, Chesapeake

Christmas cactus are fussy about heat and light. If you were giving them too much water, their buds would drop off. They need half a day's darkness for six weeks before they bloom and they need cool temperatures. Either will force them into bud and bloom. Put them outdoors in summer in the shade and keep them there until the first frost. The cool nights outdoors will usually force them to have buds by the time you bring them indoors.

Good luck and be aware you're not the only person having trouble getting cactus to bloom.

I have a 5-foot Damson plum that tries to bear beautiful fruit every year. Before the fruit ripens, a gooey substance comes out of the fruit and then it drops off the tree. Please help.

Alice F. Russell, Greenbush

Virginia Tech experts say your problem is most likely plum curculio, a disease. You'll need multiple applications of a home fruit tree spray, available in garden centers. A Virginia Tech spraying schedule is being sent you.

Please examine the holly enclosed. Summer before last, I lost several hollies, so last growing season I sprayed with Orthenex. I thought I had the problem solved until I saw this horrible mess on my hollies again. Can you provide a plan of action to prevent losing more hollies?

Sally Baker, Virginia Beach

Entomologist Peter Schultz, director of the Hampton Roads Research Center, examined the holly and identified the problem as armored scale. It's a tough one, and you'll need to spray at once, before new growth starts, with horticultural oil. Spray again in mid-June. After the plants go dormant each fall, spray again with oil. It may require several sprayings and perhaps several seasons to eliminate the problem. Check often to observe results.

I have a 4-year-old weeping willow tree in a low area of my yard. It always receives adequate water. It was flourishing until last July when almost overnight, the leaves on about half the branches (all of them facing East) turned black. In late October, I cut off those branches and found them to be dead. The bark on the main trunk, facing East, was dry, brown and lifeless, although the remainder of the trunk was fresh and moist, and the leaves were still green. Can you tell me what killed half the tree? Will the surviving half continue to live? If I remove this tree, is it safe to plant another weeping willow on the same site?

Henry M. Gelfand, Virginia Beach

Willow trees are usually easy to grow, especially if they get plenty of water. It sounds like yours may be a victim of herbicides. Have you used a weed killer near it? Or a soil sterilant such as you would use on a driveway to destroy weeds and grass. Either of them will severely harm a tree. If the tree does stand in water, it could have root rot. There is one called ``shoe string root rot'' that affects willow trees, according to Virginia Tech authorities. If you pull up the tree and the roots are not healthy, do not plant another one in that spot.

As for the tree as it currently exists, it may come back but will probably be misshapen. If it were mine, I'd nurse it along until mid-summer. If it has not recovered, pull it out and replant in October.

I am sending information regarding the question from Cecelia Baum of Wanchese, N.C., asking about ``summer poinsettia.'' The seed is available from J.L. Hudson Seedsmen, Star Route 2, Box 337, La Honda, Calif. 94020. Its catalog costs $1. These people are very reliable and have unusual seeds. Also note they list ``Texas hibiscus'' on the catalog page I'm sending you.

Neal Walter, Virginia Beach

Thanks to Neal Walter for helpful information. If the pages sent me are typical of what Hudson Seedsmen carry, it really has some unusual flower seeds. The catalog says: ``Hibiscus coccineus'' or ``Red Star of Texas'' has a large red 6-inch flower on a plant that grows 8 feet tall. Hardy to about Philadelphia. Soak seed 2 hours. Attracts hummingbirds. A fine plant.''

Those who want to grow the annual summer poinsettia or Texas hibiscus now know where to get seed.

Please name the evergreen, a sample of which I am enclosing, and where I can buy it.

Ellen Whitfield, Chesapeake

Your fern-like foliaged evergreen is arborvitae, in the pine family. It has frondlike branches, aromatic when crushed. They are widely used in home landscapes and obtainable in various sizes, shapes and colors in most nurseries. They are slow growing and do best in rich, moist soil in cool locations but are tolerant of less than perfect conditions. American arborvitae is the one most used, growing to a height of 60 feet.

I have a 4-foot Norfolk Island pine, such as one a reader recently wrote about. I placed it in bright light and it didn't like that. Some of the branches were burned, so I cut them out and cut back the top of the tree before moving it to another part of the house. It's been there several months and has new growth, doing fine. So you can cut them back and they will bounce back, if in the proper location.

Karen Jordan, Portsmouth

Thanks for your advice for those fussing with Norfolk Island pines. After watching several die over the last 25 years from too much water, too little water, too much sun, not enough sun, I decided there are better things to do with my time. For the many who like to grow Norfolk Island pine, you now know they have been successfully cut back.

I am moving to a very drab place that is shady with lots of pines and other trees. It's a trailer park, and I can't wait to make our yard beautiful. It's so depressing now that I want to brighten it up at once, but I am new at planting flowers and shrubs. Can you tell me what will grow - if anything - at my new home? There is no grass because of so many trees. In one area, I get some morning sun. I want to make it beautiful year-around. I will appreciate your suggestions.

Catherine Harris, Conway, N.C.

Since you have too much shade for grass, I'd plant lots of liriope and mondo grass (it looks like miniature liriope) where you would normally have grass. Shade ground-cover plants also include hosta and ajuga. Most wildflowers do well in shade. Avoid roses, because they need sun.

If you want vines, you could plant clematis in the area where you get morning sun. Many shrubs grow well in shade, including hollies and aucuba. For colorful blooms, plant azaleas and camellias. For summer color, plant lots of coleus and impatiens. Impatiens can't be beat for color. Prepare your soil well before planting. If you're in the woods, it probably is good now, with lots of natural compost from leaves and pine needles. MEMO: No gardening questions will be taken over the phone. Write to Robert

Stiffler, The Virginian-Pilot, 150 W. Brambleton Ave., Norfolk, Va.

23510. Answers will be published on a space-available basis. For an

earlier reply, send a self-addressed, stamped envelope. by CNB