The Virginian-Pilot
                             THE VIRGINIAN-PILOT 
              Copyright (c) 1996, Landmark Communications, Inc.

DATE: Saturday, June 8, 1996                TAG: 9606080381
SECTION: LOCAL                   PAGE: B1   EDITION: FINAL 
SOURCE: BY STEVE STONE, STAFF WRITER 
                                            LENGTH:   90 lines

HARBORFEST AT 20: THE ZING OF YOUTH, SEASONING OF YEARS WATERFRONT FESTIVALS

Except for a giant, frosting-covered birthday cookie in the command center, there was little Friday to distinguish Harborfest 20 from Harborfest 19 - or 15 or 10.

And that's the beauty of the granddad of Hampton Roads' community parties, said Marshal Hardy of Norfolk.

``It's always wonderful,'' Hardy said as he and his wife enjoyed a few minutes in the shade Friday afternoon.

``It's been 20 years? God, I feel old,'' Melissa Hardy, 34, said. ``My mom took me to one of the first ones when I was a teenager. Now look at me.'' She nodded to her side where son Robert and daughter Kirsten, 6 and 8, were fighting over a drink. ``You sure it's been 20 years?''

It has.

Harborfest '96 - and its sister, the Portsmouth Seawall Festival - kicked off on schedule Friday with the arrival of the Parade of Sail on the Elizabeth River waterfront.

``I love it,'' said Dot Duncan, one of about 400 senior partygoers who attended Elderfest, a part of Harborfest. ``We saw all the tall ships come in and the John Lennon art show at the Marriott and now this.''

``This'' was the big band sounds of the Top Hat Orchestra, which had many in the crowd, gathered in the cool shade of a huge blue-and-white tent, tapping their feet and swaying in their seats.

Duncan said she and her friends from the Tarrallton School senior citizens group didn't want the day to end.

Gail Burton, chairman of the Elderfest program, said it has become a big success over its eight years, drawing participants from homes and senior programs throughout Virginia and North Carolina.

The weather, though a bit breezy, was pleasant as the three-day party was launched. And while it may look familiar to those who have made Harborfest an annual tradition, there are some subtle changes.

The biggest is in the way the festival is laid out. There's more room for walking, with tents now set back on Waterside Drive using part of the street for pedestrians and a greater variety of vendors.

And most food and beverage concessions have been grouped into two large food courts, each with something that has been missing in the past: tables. Seating is limited - there are numerous stand-and-eat tables - but organizers hope folks will be courteous about sharing the space.

The food courts will likely prove a blessing for folks - especially families. Now, instead of going from one side of the park to the other to get a smoked turkey leg, fresh-cut fries and a lemonade, it's just a short tour around a food court to see what's available.

With one L-shaped food court next to Otter Berth and the other near Nauticus, it's a neat square - and within it is a world of dining delights. Just pick one item from each booth and you have a 12-course meal.

Selections include she-crab soup, sea sacks - seafood in pita bread sandwiches, beef paellas, gourmet red beans and rice, cheese steak and cajun sausage.

To wash it all down, there's fresh-squeezed lemonade, soda, Harborfest rum punch or the old stalwart, a cold beer.

And if you're really daring, chow down on ``farm-raised alligator on a stick.'' That's right. The food that once could eat you is now a barbecue delight. It tastes greats. Looks like chicken. Has a similar flavor. But it's alligator. Really.

And if you want a taste of country, check out Marlboro's Rolling M Cookhouse parked on Waterside Drive. Just look for red. Bright, bright red.

On only its third stop since being launched this year, the cookhouse is a promotion for the Marlboro Country Cookbook. And non-smokers are welcome (but you must be 21).

For $2 - which goes to the Foodbank of Southeastern Virginia - you'll get a sampling of items from the cookbook, which is a zesty compilation of western and country tastes, such as sourdough cornbread, beef and beer stew, Texas beef on Texas toast and plum crumble.

Each day of the festival, a different selection of items will be served. Any leftovers are being delivered to the Foodbank each day.

It's American cooking, easily at home at Harborfest. ``Definitely,'' said John Schlosser of Wisconsin, one of two celebrity chefs who works outside the main kitchen, under a huge mirror so folks can see his every culinary move.

``Anybody can prepare these recipes,'' insists Schlosser, who admits to a weakness for the cookbook's cyclone chili. But every good backyard chef has his own secret recipe. Surely he has something that would top the cookbook offerings?

Schlosser lets loose with an ``aw shucks'' grin, but deflects the question. ``I'd rather not say.''

His secret is safe. ILLUSTRATION: Color photo by CANDICE C. CUSIC\The Virginian-Pilot

The Parade of Sail opens Harborfest 20 on Friday.

[Side Bar]

Harborfest Highlights

Boardwalk Arts Festival

For complete text, see microfilm by CNB