THE VIRGINIAN-PILOT
Copyright (c) 1996, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: Sunday, June 9, 1996 TAG: 9606060197
SECTION: CAROLINA COAST PAGE: 14 EDITION: FINAL
TYPE: Restaurant Review
SOURCE: BY PAUL SOUTH, STAFF WRITER
DATELINE: GRANDY LENGTH: 88 lines
IN THE 1950s, when America liked Ike, and Hula-Hoops and a swivel-hipped kid from Memphis named Elvis, diners dotted the landscape.
The silver boxcars with neon signs, black-and-white checkerboard floors and bulky, bright Wurlitzer jukeboxes, served up cheeseburgers and chili dogs, shakes and sodas like a Detroit assembly line.
But while rock 'n' roll was here to stay, the diner faded away.
Until now. Mel's Diner, which sits on Route 158 in Grandy as a perfect stop on the way to or from the Outer Banks, brings back the days of Chuck Berry and the banana split with good food and good times at reasonable prices.
The first thing to notice at Mel's is the big gold jukebox with classic tunes from the 1950s and '60s. Nearby, the soda fountain awaits, sparkling white with hot pink soda stools. The seat nearest the cash register is adorned with a plaque.
``Reserved for Elvis,'' it reads.
Presley didn't show during our recent visit. But we believe that the King would be a big fan of the Cheeseburger Basket ($3.50).
A large cheeseburger with all the trimmings is accompanied by an ample portion of fries and a crisp pickle. The burger was the classic old-fashioned kind that you have to grasp with both hands, trimmed with lettuce, tomato, onion, mustard, mayo and ketchup.
The fries were hot and not too crispy, and the pickle was a nice extra touch.
My lunch companion opted for one of the daily specials, the chicken and dumplings with early field peas, bread pudding and cornbread ($4.75). For diners who don't want the standard burger and fries, Mel's offers daily specials and a wide array of fresh vegetables.
``The chicken and dumplings were just like Mama makes,'' my companion said after he wolfed down every bite.
For dessert, we chose Mel's homemade chocolate cake ($2.95) and a chocolate shake. The cake was moist and fluffy, and drizzled with pecans.
The shake came to our table in a cold steel fountain container, and a tall glass. Both desserts are big league.
Along with good food, waitresses dressed in poodle skirts with hair tied back in scarves add to the nostalgic feel of the place. The walls are like a museum for the baby boom. One wall bears a 1959 Chicago White Sox pennant, another the haunting image of Lee Harvey Oswald, brandishing a high-powered rifle that would alter the course of a generation.
From another frame, the larger-than-life Gary Cooper and an article about his film ``High Noon.'' Gold records also adorn the walls, along with magazine covers, car ads paying homage to big fins.
Mel's Diner opened in January. A winter debut can sometimes mean curtains for restaurants on the Outer Banks. But owner Billy Pickell tells a different story.
``People were waiting for us,'' Pickell said. ``We had two snows, and even during those we stayed busy.''
Pickell said that sometimes, waitresses will dance to the music from the juke box. Even customers join in the fun.
``The thing that makes this special is the atmosphere,'' Pickell said. ``It's so laid-back. Most of our customers are middle-aged folks who remember the '50s and '60s. We've had customers 60 or 70 years old who get up and dance to the music. We have fun here. We really do.'' MEMO: Carolina Coast dining profiles are based on a single, unannounced
visit by Virginian-Pilot writers. Restaurant managers are often
contacted later for more information. The Virginian-Pilot pays for the
meal. ILLUSTRATION: Staff photo by DREW C. WILSON
Ruth Daniels, 85, of Wanchese browses the walls at Mel's Diner in
Grandy.
MEL'S DINER
Where: U.S. 158, Grandy.
Phone: 453-9200.
Features: Good old-fashioned sandwiches and soda fountain treats,
as well as full breakfasts and dinners.
Prices: Breakfast: $1.55 to $4.50. Soups and salads: $1.95 to
$3.25. Sandwiches: $1.95 to $4.75. Dinner platters: $3.95 to $14.95.
Hours: Open daily for breakfast (6 a.m. to 11 a.m.), lunch (11
a.m. to 5 p.m.), dinner (5 p.m. to 9 p.m.)
Drinks: Soft drinks, coffee, tea, milk, juice, chocolate milk and
old-fashioned shakes.
Credit Cards: Visa, MasterCard.
Reservations: Not required.
Smoking: Allowed.
Handicapped accessible: Yes. by CNB