THE VIRGINIAN-PILOT
Copyright (c) 1996, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: Sunday, June 23, 1996 TAG: 9606200041
SECTION: FLAVOR PAGE: F2 EDITION: FINAL
COLUMN: The Humble Steward
SOURCE: Jim Raper
LENGTH: 83 lines
ALAIN BLANCHON was well-prepared for the wine import business he began six years ago.
He is a Frenchman and he had worked in the wine trade in Burgundy. Just as important, he had traveled extensively in the United States promoting French wines and foods. Who better to select French wines to suit American tastes?
Blanchon Cellars Corp., which is based in Fort Washington, Pa., near Philadelphia, ships wines from all over France to mostly East Coast markets. Some of his wines have found their way into Hampton Roads and he hopes many more will soon.
Blanchon and Kronheim Co. distributors hosted a tasting of Blanchon Cellars wines in Richmond a few weeks ago. Here are highlights from my tasting notes:
Domaine Monts Du Roi 1994 Syrah Vin de Pays d'Oc ($8) - This is an outstanding red with concentrated dark fruit and black pepper flavors. It is from the Languedoc in southern France. If you happen to find the 1992 Syrah from this domaine, buy it. It's even better. Also good values are the domaine's other vins de pays d'Oc varietals, 1994 Cabernet Sauvignon, 1994 Merlot and 1995 Chardonnay, all priced at $8.
Domaine Richaud 1994 Cotes du Rhone ($9) - Notes of tar and black pepper add complexity to the fresh, dark cherry fruit, and help give this red a nice, long finish.
Domaine Chopin 1991 Cote de Nuits-Villages ($22) - A medium-bodied and sophisticated red burgundy, this is a lovely wine fairly priced. Flavors unfold of tart cherries, mushrooms, minerals, and - a trace of - licorice.
Cruise to winery
What to do with friends and relatives who drop in this summer to share their vacations with you? We're blessed in southeastern Virginia with more options than most. But after the beach, after the theme parks and museums, after the harbor tours and after Colonial Williamsburg, what then?
Why not take the Rappahannock River cruise boat that leaves from Hoskins Creek in Tappahannock each morning (except Mondays) and chugs two hours up the winding waterway to Ingleside Plantation Vineyards.
Guests can bring picnic foods or buy lunches. Soft drinks and, of course, wine are also sold. Even better, the staff at the winery provides tours of the facility and tastings of Ingleside's full range of wines.
The beautiful grounds and enjoyable wines of Ingleside Plantation are reasons enough to take the cruise, but the boat ride is a treat, as well. Old steamboat landings, historic homes and lots of wildlife can be seen from the boat.
Call Rappahannock River Cruises, (804) 453-2628.
My favorites of the Ingleside Plantation wines include the Chesapeake Blanc ($9), a nonvintage white made mostly of the hybrid seyval and vidal grapes, and a perfect picnic wine; the 1994 Chardonnay Virginia ($12), a not-too-citrusy, not-too-buttery, not-too-oaky, very refreshing white; the 1994 Merlot Virginia ($12), a medium-bodied example with cherry and mint flavors; and the 1993 Cabernet Sauvignon Virginia ($12), which is dark and rich, and one of the state's better reds.
Four Californians
From Mirassou Vineyards in California come four wines with redesigned labels on the outside of the bottles and tasty wine inside.
1994 Chardonnay Monterey County Harvest Reserve ($15) - Aromas and flavors of vanilla and spices tip us off to the time this wine spent in French oak. There is just enough acid to counter the butter and thick tropical fruit. This is a big chardonnay for less than a big price. For a treat, try it with steamed crabs.
1994 Pinot Blanc Monterey County Harvest Reserve ($15) - Mirassou touts this as an alternative to chardonnay. It's true, most people couldn't tell the difference between this and a big, oaky chardonnay. I detected a bit more zing on the finish, perhaps more fresh pineapple flavor than the canned-pineapple-in- syrup flavor that afflicts some chardonnays. This is a wine to pair with dishes that have lots of olive oil in them.
1993 Pinot Noir Monterey County Harvest Reserve ($15) - This is one of the better pinots I've tasted from Mirassou. There is a complexity to it, nice contrasts between dark cherry fruit and coffee/leather components. It is big enough to drink with venison, lamb or a T-bone steak. Drinks nicely now, but could be cellared until the turn of the century.
1993 Pinot Noir Monterey County Family Selection ($9) - This is a delightful, medium-to-light-bodied red. It actually tastes like a pinot, which is something that cannot be said for all $9 California pinots. Try it with grilled burgers, roasted chicken or baked salmon. by CNB