THE VIRGINIAN-PILOT
Copyright (c) 1996, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: Sunday, June 23, 1996 TAG: 9606210428
SECTION: CAROLINA COAST PAGE: 12 EDITION: FINAL
SOURCE: BY ANNE SAITA, STAFF WRITER
DATELINE: KITTY HAWK LENGTH: 132 lines
For everyone who has had trouble keeping up with the Argyle Bake Shoppe and Black Forest Delicatessen, there's good news.
After three locations in six years, the bakery and deli that prides itself on catering to all tastes is staying put in its current Kitty Hawk location.
``People have had a tough time keeping up with us, but this is a final resting spot because we bought the building,'' said P.J. Sinkage, who runs the business with his wife, Debra.
Located on the bypass at Milepost 2.5, the Argyle Bake Shoppe has found a new legion of fans for its homemade pastries, breads and deli soups and sandwiches.
And it still has its faithful following who for years have been drawn to the all-natural, baked-from-scratch meals and munchies that are the shoppe's mainstays.
Open from 6 in the morning until 6 at night, the bakery and deli have a varied menu of breakfast specials, appetizers, grilled items, breads, cakes, pies, muffins, soups and sandwiches - and that's just for starters.
Some who spot the small restaurant from the roadside may be surprised to find the Argyle Bake Shoppe and Black Forest Delicatessen serves so much food.
``The place never gets packed because of the small parking lot,'' Sinkage said. That helps create a more intimate and less intimidating establishment, especially for those who want quality food at an affordable price.
The comfortable surroundings, should you choose to eat in, can also induce you to eat more than planned. It's not uncommon to go back for seconds or thirds on some easily addictive confections.
``People have made the comment after eating lunch or having breakfast that they feel good the rest of the day. We don't use any chemicals as substitutes.
``And when you're feeling good and eating well, you can get through the day a little better,'' Sinkage said.
He and his wife are believed to be the only all-natural bakers left in North Carolina, Sinkage said. Two separate kitchens are used for the bakery and the deli, thus avoiding any flavor crossings.
The name of the bakery derives from the Sinkages' former eatery on Long Island, which was located along Argyle Park.
The couple opened its first Outer Banks store in Manteo more than six years ago and relocated a few years later to the beach road in Kill Devil Hills. They've been at their current site since November 1994.
Despite living for several years in the South, Sinkage clearly sounds like a Yankee, which may help explain why his bakery is frequented regularly by Northern tourists and recent transplants homesick for good ol' New York deli-style cooking.
My husband and I checked out the place for lunch on a recent Wednesday.
Despite being a native of the South, my husband wanted to test the authenticity of this New York deli stuff and ordered one of the day's specials - the Philly Cheese Steak Sandwich for $3.95.
A generous portion of marinated Boar's Head sliced steak and sauteed onions and peppers, along with slabs of white American cheese, were stuffed into a hero and served with a side of potato salad. Coleslaw and pasta salad also were available.
Everything was served in plastic or paper, adding a little informality and making table bussing easier for the staff.
The verdict on the sandwich: ``Mmmm. . . mmmm. . . mmmm. This is goooood!''
I opted for the Mid-Atlantic, also priced at $3.95. My version included two black-bean filled quesadillas, rolled and lightly fried and served on a bed of green-leaf lettuce.
A cup of Bermuda clam chowder was served with Pepperidge Farms butter-thin flavored crackers - perfect when saturated with the spicy orange-colored broth that helped keep an assortment of vegetables (potatoes, corn, peas, carrots, green beans and lima beans) piping hot.
Each of the two- and four-seat tables in dining areas that collectively seat 40 contained plastic flowers in a small glass vase advertising a floral design service.
Top 40 music from a radio was piped through tiny speakers in each dining nook. Most of the time, though, we listened as a customer's order was called out, on a first-name basis.
What happens when the place is packed and there are several Toms ordering? I asked one of the servers behind the bakery counter.
``Then we go to last names,'' she responded.
There's usually ample room to amble among the dining rooms, but the bakery and deli counters can get crowded, especially around lunchtime.
Lines move quickly, though, unless, like us, you're overwhelmed by the selection.
Were it breakfast, I'd be stumped over a Western omelette or silver dollar pancakes. Should I uphold my caloric oath and get the ``Cellulite Buster'' ($3.95) with its low-fat cottage cheese, lettuce, tomato, carrots, green peppers served with low-fat ranch dressing? Or should I just go for broke and spend 30 cents more for ``Cheeseburger! Cheeseburger! Cheeseburger!''?
And don't even get me started on the bakery end of the establishment.
We took home a bag full of pastries, including scones, eclairs, a couple of brownies and two pieces of Mississippi mud cake.
The stash should last us at least a week, we thought. Instead we devoured the desserts in a matter of minutes (with our kids' help, of course).
My favorite was the scone, laden with raisins to add just a hint of sweetness to the light-and-airy batter. The British would be proud.
The Mississipi mud cake was better than any I'd ever tasted, mainly because the chocolate wasn't overwhelming. The walnut-coating mix that topped it provided just the right texture.
The creme-filled eclairs, sinfully sweet, got high ratings from the rest of the family.
Market demand for some ingredients, especially flour and dairy products, has forced a slight price increase at the restaurant. But the food is still very affordable.
``We give you fair, reasonable prices. A family of four can come in for an early bird of, say, shrimp baskets, dessert and drinks and spend $20 and be stuffed. Some even leave with a doggy bag.'' MEMO: AT A GLANCE
Where: Milepost 2.5 on the U.S. 158 Bypass, Kitty Hawk
Features: Large bakery selections, including fresh breads, danish,
cookies, crumb cakes, muffins, dozens of pies, cheesecakes and other
baked items. Numerous breakfast specials, such as eggs and pancakes.
Also, the deli has a large menu and daily serves specials.
Prices: Breakfasts range from 75 cents for a bagel with butter to
$4.99 for a Western omelette, home fries and toast. Appetizers: $1.25 to
$3.95.
Specialties: Quesadillas for $2.99 to a Medium Fried Shrimp Basket
for $5.99. Sandwiches run from $3.50 to $5.95.
Bakery items include 65-cent danishes and scones, $1.99 filled
croissants, 50-cent doughnuts or bagels, $1.50 to $2.25 breads, $9 pies,
$12.50 or $18.50 cheesecakes. Pies and cheesecake also offered by the
slice.
Hours: Open year-round from 6 a.m. to 6 p.m., Monday through
Saturday; closed Sundays.
Drinks: Gourmet coffees, teas, soft drinks, milk.
Payment: Any major credit card, local and out-of-town checks,
travelers' checks, cash.
Reservations: Not required.
Smoking: Not allowed.
Handicapped accessible: Yes. Includes entrance ramp, wide entrance
aisle and wheelchair-friendly restrooms. Main parking lot is paved. ILLUSTRATION: Color photo by DREW C. WILSON
After moving three times in six years, The Argyle Bake Shoppe and
Black Forest Delicatessen has found a home in Kitty Hawk. by CNB