THE VIRGINIAN-PILOT
Copyright (c) 1996, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: Sunday, June 23, 1996 TAG: 9606230059
SECTION: LOCAL PAGE: B1 EDITION: FINAL
SOURCE: BY PAUL CLANCY, STAFF WRITER
DATELINE: ABOARD THE GALATEA LENGTH: 72 lines
A distant drum roll rumbles across the Intracoastal Waterway. Sounds like thunder.
On our seventh day along the path of snowbirds, the folks who move their pleasure boats up and down the East Coast, it wouldn't surprise us to encounter another storm.
But as we round a bend at mile marker 240, the answer dawns.
``Onslow Beach Highway Bridge, this is the northbound sailboat Galatea,'' owner John Hussey calls to the bridge tender on his hand-held VHF radio. ``Can you give us an opening?''
``Sorry, Captain, I'm going to have to hold you up due to live fire.''
Hussey, a former Marine, who trained in this wilderness known as Camp Lejeune, knows what that means. The Marines are firing their weapons and don't want to accidently shoot boaters passing through their range.
``How long do you think it will be?''
``About 60 minutes, Captain. You might as well drop a hook and enjoy the sunshine.''
We departed Southport, N.C., at 6:30 a.m., and are eager to get to Swansboro and anchor for the night. We're already three days behind schedule because of a narrow brush with Tropical Storm Arthur on the Atlantic. But we'd take the full wrath of Arthur over a hail of bullets.
``Thank you, sir, we'll be standing by,'' Hussey responds.
Jim Trum, one of the crew, goes forward and drops the 45-pound plough anchor, and Galatea rocks back on her heels.
Delays are in keeping with the pace of the Intracoastal Waterway. Even power boaters who blow us away on this sometimes narrow, meandering path are humbled by bridge-opening schedules, no-wake zones and tight squeezes.
Doing 6 to 7 knots for several hundred miles is a lesson in patience. Life's tempo slows to a crawl. Day follows seamless day. The great Egrets that wait in utter concentration at shore's edge for a snack to come swimming by seem to have it right.
The people pace, however, changes abruptly at the North Carolina line.
Leaving Southport and entering the great Fear River is an abrupt reminder that all is not backwater meandering on the Intracoastal. It's as busy as Norfolk's harbor, with tugs and barges and powerboats flexing their muscles.
We've been under power all day, Galatea's 44 horsepower engine droning away. A listless breeze makes sailing useless.
It's no fun waiting for a bridge to lift, but we make the best of it. A couple we met Thursday at Southport has been trailing us, and now we can get to know them better.
Philip and Janis Benson have traveled the world in the foreign service. He was cultural attache in Sweden, Kenya, France and the Netherlands. She is a professional actress. In Sweden, where sailing is a passion, they entertained artists and opera singers on their new boat Tina.
Now, Tina 3 with 25,000 miles on her log, pulls up beside and we throw out lines and raft together while the Marines' fire burst in the air.
The Bensons are going as close to Washington as possible, then they're flying to Custer, S.D., where they'll appear together at the Black Hills Playhouse.
But there is no hurry.
``You have to be wary at all times,'' Philip Benson says. ``Like wild animals, a little bit of you is always alert. And that enhances your sense of life.'' He tries again to explain their love of being on the move. ``It's living the moment, accepting the moments that are given to you.''
``Or the bridges that are closed,'' Janis Benson adds.
Finally, two hours after closing, the bridge tender gets the OK to let us pass. We untie and wave goodbye. MEMO: Next: A report Tuesday on the Galatea as it navigates the
waterways of northeastern North Carolina en route to Elizabeth City. ILLUSTRATION: Map
Destination Hampton Roads
Map by CNB