THE VIRGINIAN-PILOT
Copyright (c) 1996, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: Wednesday, June 26, 1996 TAG: 9606250053
SECTION: FLAVOR PAGE: F2 EDITION: FINAL
COLUMN: A LA CARTE
SOURCE: BY DONNA REISS, RESTAURANT CRITIC
LENGTH: 59 lines
THE ITALIAN SAUSAGE sandwich reminded my companion of youthful forays into Manhattan. It had been years, he said, since he'd tasted the real thing: tingly-spicy sausage on a large soft bun overflowing with sauteed onions and peppers. My own famous Chicago was a fine all-beef frank with toppings of sweet relish, mustard, pickle, peppers, tomato and onion.
At Wiener World, 438 High St., Portsmouth, we had seven frank selections including a Coney Island with chili. In a nod to diversity, they offer chicken or salami or lightly charred fresh veggies on a bun. Although the fresh-cut fries were a bit too brown and salty for our taste, melted Cheddar dip was just the antidote. For dessert, a Wunderbar brand cheesecake on a stick was frozen like ice cream but not so refreshing.
You can phone ahead or call for delivery 393-7788. They're open Monday through Saturday, 11 a.m. to 3:30 p.m. NOUVELLE ANTIQUITIES
Only Monroe Duncan, traveling chef-raconteur, could entice Earl Branche, distinguished maitre d'hotel at Antiquities, to abandon his tuxedo for casual attire. No, Branche won't be wearing a muscle shirt and Birkenstocks; yes, he'll still stir your Caesar salad and flambe your strawberries Romanov. But the mood and food will be lighter, the prices lower, at the restaurants of the Norfolk Airport Hilton. Working as a consultant with Branche and director of restaurants Barbara Sykes, Duncan seeks to showcase Antiquities as ``a restaurant located in a hotel rather than a hotel restaurant.''
To promote the new menu and broaden the appeal of the fine-dining restaurant, Antiquities is featuring fresh white and green asparagus through the middle of July. Among the offerings: veal Oscar, soft-shells with white asparagus and a complimentary scoop of asparagus sorbet. Located at Military highway and Northampton Boulevards in Norfolk; phone 466-8000. IN THE BEST OF TASTE
Savor summer with Taste for Art, June 23 through Aug. 29. This annual commingling of the palate and the palette raises funds to support contemporary American art exhibits and educational programs for the Virginia Beach Center for the Arts. Contemporary American cuisine nourishes both artists and their patrons at 11 dinner parties prepared by regional chefs. This year's culinary events are, like many art shows, juried. First prize for the chef: a spread in Southern Living magazine. Held in Virginia Beach homes, many of them overlooking local waters, every dinner offers a theme for its 80 guests, and a $50 ticket includes the meal, matching beverages and music. For a brochure with detailed descriptions or for additional information, phone 425-0000. SEASONAL MENUS
The Kitchen at Powhatan Plantation, 3601 Ironbound Road, Williamsburg, is serving a spring vegetable and barley soup, chicken and shiitake terrine, and pan-fried rainbow trout among the summer treats for its new menu. Phone 220-1200, Ext. 708. At the Bienville Grill, 723 W. 21st St., Norfolk, summer's gumbo is made with hen. On the new season's menu, crawfish appear in enchiladas and on fettuccine as well as in a classic etouffee. Garlic pesto tops flatbread; a vegetable medley comes with couscous. Phone 625-5427. by CNB