THE VIRGINIAN-PILOT
Copyright (c) 1996, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: Wednesday, July 17, 1996 TAG: 9607160051
SECTION: FLAVOR PAGE: F2 EDITION: FINAL
COLUMN: A La Carte
SOURCE: BY DONNA REISS, RESTAURANT CRITIC
LENGTH: 63 lines
DINNER AT Seawell's Ordinary turned out to be extraordinary.
The charming Colonial tavern set back from busy U.S. Highway 17 just outside Gloucester seems an unlikely place for an exotic meal, but ostrich was the irresistible evening special. And it was a substantial filet of red meat, cooked just the way we would have ordered a steak, medium rare with a flavor almost beefy.
Ranches in Texas and Oklahoma give these big birds wide open spaces to roam before they become somebody's dinner, according to our waitress. Phone (804) 642-3635.
Just in Thyme
For many years, Ethel Pangborn, the Lucky Star's popular sous-chef, was destined to open her own place. She now has it with Thyme Square Market and Deli on Norfolk's Botetourt Street.
Thyme Square is the kind of cute cafe you'd expect on a big-city corner. Cafe-style chairs and display cases of vegetables, specialty foods and beverages provide the interior atmosphere at the redesigned building that was for many years the Recovery Room tavern.
Huge sandwiches and salads that are made-to-order, daily soup specials, dinners to eat in or take out and lovely desserts make the inside scene more important than the view of Brambleton Avenue.
Open Monday through Friday from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m., Thyme Square is expanding its menu at the request of vegetarian customers and to reflect seasonal harvests. Carnivores need not fear, however: The eat-in or take-out selections will continue to feature meatloaf, roast chicken and fresh fish. Busy urbanites can pick up dinner on the way home from work.
Drop in at 509 Botetourt St. or phone 623-5082.
Brunch at Brewbakers
Linger over coffee at Brewbakers, 806 Spotswood Ave., Norfolk, now open for brunch Saturday and Sunday from 9 a.m. to 2 p.m.
Breakfast pitas, bagels, fruit-topped flapjacks, and sourdough French toast are among the offerings. Lunch specials change monthly. July's temptations include oven-roasted vegetable sandwich on Wednesdays and jerk chicken with peach chutney and black bean salad on Thursdays. Phone 625-2739.
Home of the Harp
Who were Mo and O'Malley, the names on the Norfolk pub at 131 Granby St., which opened in time for St. Patrick's Day this year?
Co-owner Bernie Rich pointed to the autographed pictures of Maureen O'Hara (Mo) and Bing Crosby (sometimes on screen as Father O'Malley).
Harp and Guiness on are on tap. Upstairs in the evenings, dart teams compete, and Celtic music plays Wednesdays through Saturdays. In July, Martin Marron plays Irish folk songs and welcomes sing-alongs. You can eat bangers and mash, the chubby gray sausages imported from England, or corned beef and cabbage. Or you can go American with chicken wings or a barbecue sandwich. 623-3466.
Kids Cafe
Summer guests at the Cavalier at the Oceanfront in Virginia Beach can reserve a place for their children at the Kids Cafe, a dining area just for youngsters. Counselors from the hotel's day camp program entertain youngsters with games and movies over chicken fingers and burgers while their parents enjoy an adult dinner in one of the hotel's dining rooms.
Local children are invited as well. Through Labor Day. Phone 425-8555 for reservations. by CNB