THE VIRGINIAN-PILOT
Copyright (c) 1996, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: Sunday, July 28, 1996 TAG: 9607250036
SECTION: FLAVOR PAGE: F1 EDITION: FINAL
TYPE: Restaurant Review
SOURCE: BY BROWN H. CARPENTER, STAFF WRITER
LENGTH: 90 lines
IF YOU WANT to coin a term for Mexicali Authentic Mexican Grill, you might use ``Eclec-Mex.''
Pita bread sandwiches? They're on this menu, even though such fare is rare south of the border. A broccoli and spicy pork stir-fry served in a tortilla? It was a recent special.
Beef chunks marinated in teriyaki sauce and sauteed with jalapenos? The members of the Pepper Lovers Club of Virginia Beach would love it.
In short, Mexicali, at 485 S. Independence Blvd., Virginia Beach, is chaotic but fun.
The restaurant, which opened about four months ago, is owned by Harry and Mary Krause, former California residents who opened a Mexicali in Williston, Vt., four years ago. They commute between Virginia and Vermont and brought their chef, Kevin Lewis, from New England. Either of the Krause daughters might be your server. This is a family enterprise.
They also brought the mahogany bar - the paneling is made from an antique barn door - from the Northeast.
Mexicali has plenty of regular Mexican entrees: quesadillas, enchiladas, fajitas and tacos. Cal-Mex (like Tex-Mex, an offshoot of Mexican food) cuisine stresses healthful fare and this is reflected in the abundance of chicken and vegetarian fillings.
Cal-Mex also means big and varied burritos, and this restaurant has 10 or so varieties. They make terrific takeout meals at under $5 each, including sides of rice and beans.
Two we have especially enjoyed are the Monterey burrito - steak or chicken, guacamole, tomato, onion, cilantro and mild salsa - and the pork burrito - pork, rice, cheddar, onions, sour cream and a medium sweet red salsa.
Both are delicious blends of meat, veggies and seasonings.
At Mexicali, prices are reasonable and portions are big. The staff welcomes takeout orders.
The restaurant offers two or three daily specials. Here is a rundown of three we experienced recently:
Steak and Shrimp Diablo - a spicy stir-fry-like meal with three cheeses. Hearty and fiery at $7.99.
Tocino Stir-Fry - spicy pork, broccoli and mushrooms with tortillas ($6.95). Tasty, but a tad dry. Counter this with applications of the salsa.
Mango Barbecued Shrimp - crustaceans served with a sweet, zesty mango salsa plus slices of jalapeno. The hot peppers shouldn't fool anyone, but the salsa has a tangy little afterburn.
The mango mixture is also featured on a barbecued pork sandwich, an idea that effectively fuses California mellow with good-old-boy Southern.
Let us note that most of the fare at the Mexicali should cause no trepidation for those who fear fire. Three salsas are available before the main course: mild, medium (smoky with chipotle chiles) and hot (starring the legendary habanero pepper). Dip your chip into the one that suits you.
A few more positive notes: The bar has 11 tequila cocktails plus six varieties of margarita. The Krauses boast about their fried ice cream, but they were depleted the evening we dined there. We tried the Sweet Chimichanga ($2.75), a fried pastry filled with fresh fruit, sprinkled with cinnamon and topped with whipped cream. Six people split this thing. Ole!
And a few negatives: The beer list is ordinary, with only a couple of Mexican brews to excite a thirst. The food here is beer fare and quality suds would complement it. Also, the menu is confusing. The evening we dined, one special was listed on a chalkboard outside the entrance and two others were noted in the foyer. The takeout menu differs from the table menu, and ``gringo food'' (mostly sandwiches) was printed on the placard listing the appetizers and beverages.
But all in all, the Mexicali has a winning formula with its combination of nutritious, spicy food; low prices; familiar Mexican dishes, and some unusual dishes for the culinarily adventurous. ILLUSTRATION: Color photo by Roy A. Bahls
[Grilled steak strips ...]
Graphic
BILL OF FARE
Mexicali, 485 S. Independence Blvd., Virginia Beach. 497-1844. If
you're driving west on Independence Boulevard, turn left at Edwin
Drive and turn right into the alley behind the gas station on the
corner for access into the Mexicali parking lot.
Cuisine: Familiar Mexican or Cal-Mex dishes plus innovative
specials.
Atmosphere: Relaxed and informal. Kid friendly.
Prices: Most specials and menu dinners are under $10. Burritos
are under $5, sandwiches and fries under $6, some tacos under $3.
Hours: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Mondays through Saturdays, noon to 8
Sundays.
Reservations: Advisable for large parties.
Smoking: About 25 percent of the dining area is reserved for
smoking. by CNB