THE VIRGINIAN-PILOT
Copyright (c) 1996, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: Sunday, July 28, 1996 TAG: 9607250185
SECTION: CAROLINA COAST PAGE: 14 EDITION: FINAL
SOURCE: BY JEWEL BOND, STAFF WRITER
DATELINE: KILL DEVIL HILLS LENGTH: 105 lines
SOMETHING EXTRAORDINARY happened to George Price shortly before the scheduled opening of his new restaurant.
While deep sea fishing in the Gulf Stream off Hatteras, a tiny creature from the sea flew out of the water and onto the deck of the boat, spawning the name for the Flying Fish Cafe that opened in May.
Price, 39, who owns the restaurant with longtime friend John Xenakis, 31, had already been thinking about the name - but was apprehensive.
``As I picked it up from the deck,'' says Price, who returned the flying fish to the sea, ``I took it as an omen that I had chosen the right name for the restaurant.''
Price became intrigued by the fascinating little fish while spending the winter of 1980 in Barbados. The fish, a delicacy in many of the world's restaurants, glides through the ocean at 30 mph, building such velocity that it bursts into the air at the water's surface.
``Although they don't really fly, the name really stuck with me,'' says Price. ``I kept thinking, what a fun name for a restaurant in a resort area.''
The restaurant menu will always boast of at least one flying fish entree - Flying Fish Chowder - and offer other specialty dishes as availability permits.
``Our chowder may not always have this particular fish in it,'' says Price, ``but it is always chock-full of fresh local fish.''
When my husband, Bill, and I visited the restaurant recently for dinner, he tried a bowl of the hearty stew. He commented that the ample serving, $2.95, with a warm chunk of Foccacia bread, is enough for a satisfying meal.
A white napkin covering a warm loaf of the foccacia and a small French bun are served on the table, no bread basket and no bread and butter plate.
The owners feel the informality keeps the dining casual.
``We want our customers to break bread and start having fun right away,'' says Price.
I skipped the appetizer and went right for the bread and butter - real butter - and I munched shamelessly and continuously until our bubbly waitress, Gina, came to take drink orders.
We each chose a glass of Estancia merlot at $5.50 from the full bar service that includes 40 different red and white wines that can be purchased by the bottle or glass.
Price is a wine enthusiast and feels the beverage promotes good health when taken in moderate consumption with food. Collecting vintage wines has been a hobby for him for 12 years. He has a wine cellar in his home.
``That's why I wanted a restaurant with a Mediterranean influence,'' he says. ``It's the type of diet that promotes wine with food. Wine always makes the food more flavorful.''
While I cannot attest to any health benefits I may have acquired, I thoroughly enjoyed the smooth full-bodied merlot with my entree of rockfish, $11.95.
Served with a Mediterranean sauce, fragrant, yet pungent, made with dry vermouth, olive oil, sun-dried tomatoes, feta cheese and black olives, the usually bland rockfish was transformed into a gourmet's delight.
Bill's order of Osso Buca, $15.95, a dish he prides himself in making, was not as spicy as he would have liked. But it's an excellent dish to order when you're really hungry, as there were three rather meaty veal shanks vying for space in the brimming-over bowl of carrots, onions and celery.
A white chocolate and caramel-peanut tart, $4.95, sinfully rich, was shared and enjoyed while easy-listening music and a marvelous aroma of cinnamon cappuccino filled the air.
The espresso machine was an expensive purchase for the two young entrepreneurs, they say. But it definitely lends to the atmosphere. ``When the diners smell it, they gotta have it,'' says Price.
To economize, the two owners planned their purchases carefully and spent seven days a week, 18 hours a day, for five weeks personally remodeling the building that once housed the Osprey Restaurant.
The owners worked four weeks with chefs Bob Vardzel, Thomas O'Hara and Billy Price deciding the menu. Their only criteria was to utilize local products when available.
The pastry chef, Rachel Brill, a graduate of the New England Culinary Institute, contributes a line of signature desserts - rich and creamy - and bread. The bread is such a big hit that the owners now offer it for sale.
``We want to have a value-oriented restaurant with plates that are exciting and filling,'' says Price.
With all this in mind, I'd say the Flying Fish is off to a flying start. MEMO: Carolina Coast Dining profiles are based on a single, unannounced
visit by writers. Restaurant managers are often contacted later for more
information. The Coast pays for the meal. ILLUSTRATION: Staff photo by DREW C. WILSON
Flying Fish Cafe owners George Price, 39, and John Xenakis, 31, try
to have at least one flying fish entree - Flying Fish Chowder - on
their menu.
Graphic
FLYING FISH CAFE
Where: Milepost 10. U.S. 158 Bypass
Phone: 441-6894
Features: Dinner - Mediterranean inspired specialties - seafood,
pork, free-range chicken, lamb, veal, vegetarian specialties
Lunch: Meat and vegetarian sandwiches, barbecue, burgers
Prices: Lunch, $3.95-4.95; dinner, $9.95-17.95; children's menu,
$2.95-4.95.
Drinks: Full bar, wine list, beer, soft drinks, coffee, tea,
cappuccino, espresso.
Reservations: Yes
Hours: Lunch 11:30 a.m.-5 p.m.; dinner 5-10 p.m.
Handicapped accessible: Paved parking, no steps, tables reserved
at or near entrance, bathrooms easily accessible.
Smoking: Yes by CNB