THE VIRGINIAN-PILOT
Copyright (c) 1996, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: Sunday, August 4, 1996 TAG: 9608020077
SECTION: HOME PAGE: G2 EDITION: FINAL
COLUMN: GARDENING
SOURCE: ROBERT STIFFLER
LENGTH: 136 lines
Until a couple of years ago, I had a beautiful Bradford pear in my front yard. I have a townhouse, so the tree was only 6 feet away from the kitchen windows. The tree had divided into two trunks about 5 feet above ground. As it got taller and heavier, one of the limbs started splitting and was hanging over my neighbors' cars. The tree was above the attic, and the house is two stories tall, so you know it was tall. I loved this tree with its beautiful white flowers and its shade. Evenings after work, we would gather under it to talk with neighbors. We all called it our ``friendship tree.'' But we finally had to have it taken down.
If we get another, can it be pruned so it won't split or is there another type we can plant that will have the same good qualities?
Robin R. Pasternak-Seggelke, Virginia Beach
You've described well the hazards that come with Bradford pear trees. Replant with an Aristocrat ornamental pear. It has a stronger, central leader. When pruning, make sure to keep a single strong leader and don't allow a double or triple trunk. If you do that, your new tree should give you as much pleasure as the one you cut down.
Last year I had bagworms on my pine trees. What and when can I spray to prevent the return of bagworms?
William Mitchell, Virginia Beach
The most recommended method of eliminating bagworms is to pick themn off by hand. If your trees are too large to do that, you need to spray. Virginia Tech says bagworm eggs hatch in late May and early June. Pick off and destroy all bagworms whenever you see them and treat with an insecticide in mid-June. The insecticide used most often is Orthene. An organic control is Bt (Bacillus thuringiensis) spray.
In response to a question on whether bittersweet can be grown here in Virginia, I can attest to the fact that it can be. When we moved here over five years ago, many of my garden plants came with me. One of them was some bittersweet roots. Last fall was the first time that the vines had those gorgeous orange berries. They fit in so well when making fall floral displays. How they survived, I don't know but I'm glad they did.
Carol Corley, Gloucester
My only response is that Gloucester has colder winters and cooler summers than South Hampton Roads. If you try to grow bittersweet in this area, it needs to be shaded.
I had a problem last year that I've never had in 20 years of growing tomatoes. Our leaves on healthy plants turned brown in mid-season. The plants continued to produce healthy new growth, but the same thing would happen. In late summer, we pulled up the vines, added fresh soil and planted a fall crop. The same thing happened. Could the problem be a blight and what should I spray the plants with?
My second question is about oleanders. I am a fairly new resident of Hatteras Island. We had water 5 feet deep from the Pamlico Sound during hurricane Emily. After the hurricane, I took note of all plants and shrubs that had survived the saltwater inundation. Oleanders were blooming like crazy, so I planted three of them. They are doing quite well, but the largest one was very brown after our cold, windy winter. Last time this happened, I cut the oleander back but it didn't bloom that year. What should I do about this brown oleander?
Irene Nolan, Buxton, N.C.
If your tomato leaves had brown patches over the entire leaf, you have a blight, say Virginia Tech authorities. But if only the edges or ends of leaves turned brown, it usually means too much fertilizer, causing leaf burn. Because your second planting suffered the same as the first, my guess is you have a blight problem. Plant the tomatoes in a new area each year and start spraying early with a fungicide such as Maneb.
Cut your oleander back, and it may come back from its roots but it won't bloom this year. If we have another severe winter, it will be brown again next spring so you may end up pruning every spring and getting blooms perhaps once every three or four years. Oleanders are hardy through Zone 9 and you, as well as the Hampton Roads area, are in Zone 8, which means they're better plants for New Orleans and southern California than for this area.
I have five sasanqua camellias in my yard, all about 9 years old. They bloomed very well until two years ago. They were filled with buds at that time, but the buds never opened. Their leaves turned yellow and I'm afraid they are dying. Can you tell me what to fertilize them with or what should I do? I love to see them in bloom and want to save them.
Maisewell Brinksly, Suffolk
It sounds like your camellias may be bothered by one of three problems. Are they too low in the ground or where water accumulates and there is little or no drainage? If so, they could be drowning. You could move them to a better location which might save them.
Has anyone been using a weedkiller like Weed-B-Gon near them? That could result in the kind of damage you describe.
A third problem could be thrips, but they normally affect the blooms and would not kill the plant. Thrips can be controlled by spraying with Orthene or an organic spray, such as one to two cups rubbing alcohol per quart of water, as recommended in Rodale's ``Chemical Free Yard & Garden'' book.
Regarding the use of alcohol to rid the effects of poison ivy and sumac, the active ingredient in poison plants is an oil-based compound that irreversibly binds to the skin. There is a short time in which the oil can be removed before this happens. Application of alcohol does the job. Do not use soap and water, which merely spreads the oil. I've found rubbing alcohol to be most effective. In a pinch, even a beer will help. Apply quickly though.
We have a tidal creek along our property and wish to plant something as a block that would retain leaves in winter. Would wax myrtle be able to withstand the periodic salty water?
Before moving to this area last year, I raised palms in the Florida Keys. I have been going through palm withdrawal ever since. After talking with Kathy Denton (Pungo Palms), I'm excited to try cold hardy palms that I have never grown before. We also talked about all the ``palm nuts'' getting together to talk, share ideas, experiences, plants and seeds. Readers who are interested should give her a call at 426-3677.
Kirk B. Smith, Chesapeake
Wax myrtle, often called native bayberry, is ideal for withstanding periodic salt water.
I'm also told that an anti-perspirent that contains aluminum chloride will get rid of the effects of poison ivy, if used immediately.
You recently had an article dealing with the problem of mole destruction. I do not remember what you said to eliminate them. Please repeat your recommendations, because so many of us have mole problems. I would also appreciate your thoughts on table scraps and vegetable garbage discarded in a garden as mulch. Would that possibly enhance mole infestation?
F.M. Bridges, Plumtree, N.C.
The three best ways to get rid of moles, in order of cost efficiency, are these:
Spray Mole Med over the area (three times per year) and water afterward.
Use an insectide like Dylox, Merit, Dursban or Diazinon to eliminate the grubs, and most of the moles will move away, because you've destroyed their food. When you see an active mole run, put castor bean seeds and/or Juicy Fruit gum (two sticks, unwrapped and rolled up) in the run every two feet and that usually gets rid of the one or two remaining moles.
Put milky spore over your entire area. It gives a disease to grubs that lasts up to 20 years. When you get rid of the grubs, you have fewer Japanese beetles as well as moles.
As to garbage, table scraps attract animals such as raccoons and possums, but they do not attract moles. Most gardeners prefer not to use table scraps on their gardens or compost piles, unless it's leafy vegetable scraps. MEMO: No gardening questions will be taken over the phone. Write to
Robert Stiffler, The Virginian-Pilot, 150 W. Brambleton Ave., Norfolk,
Va. 23510. Answers will be published on a space-available basis. For an
earlier reply, send a self-addressed, stamped envelope. ILLUSTRATION: File photo
Bradford pear trees often split apart in strong winds and must be
replaced. by CNB