THE VIRGINIAN-PILOT
Copyright (c) 1996, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: Sunday, August 4, 1996 TAG: 9608060521
SECTION: FLAVOR PAGE: F1 EDITION: FINAL
TYPE: Restaurant review
SOURCE: BY DONNA REISS, RESTAURANT CRITIC
LENGTH: 95 lines
WE WERE expecting bar fare - prepackaged fried munchies. But the year-old Taphouse Grill at the fork of 21st Street and Woodrow Avenue near Hampton Boulevard in Norfolk surprised us with its quality and variety.
On a recent Saturday evening, families with youngsters downed burgers and fries in the front room. Later, the dining room and small patio filled with casually dressed patrons eating dinner or dessert.
Pub fare listings of buffalo burgers, warm brie with apples and strawberries and falafel suggest serious attention to food. Bar snacks include not only the mandatory wings and nachos, but also Thai-influenced chicken satay and toasted French bread with garlic and goat cheese.
Even the beers aren't typical brews. The draft list includes a dozen microbrews from the United States, plus Ireland's Guinness Stout. For $1 you get a 4-ounce sample, so we tried an assortment, including Yuengling light lager, raspberry-tinged Purple Haze from New Orleans and Rockfish Red Ale (``one fish even PETA won't mind you having'' read the menu). Some hot August night we'll go back for Wild Summer Passion
Norfolk's Steamship Captain's lager has first place on the draft list. Bottled beers expand the offerings even more. Next time we'll boldly go for Belgian Duvel, touted as ``the world's most dangerous beer.''
We were courting hunger, though, not danger. Skipping the chips and wings, we began with a basket of barbecued ribs in a thick, slightly fruity, smoky sauce. They were tender and tasty and also on the dinner menu. Aioli crostini was a large platter of tender but gritty young greens topped with toasty crimini mushrooms and goat cheese to be spread on garlic toast - very good with beer.
Salads are well represented. Mixed greens are made grand with crimini mushrooms and garlic croutons, the tomato slices are topped with Parmesan and herbs and the summer salad is served with mandarin oranges and walnuts. Because it came with an optional topping of fried oysters, we selected the Caesar. The large, crisp oysters exceeded our expectations and added no discernable oil to the lemony dressing on the fresh romaine leaves.
Designer pizzas came with goat cheese or shrimp and andouille sausage. Sandwiches included fried chicken, a club and burgers of Angus beef or buffalo. Our falafel, a middle Eastern specialty enjoyed by both vegetarians and carnivores for its cumin-scented graininess, was a little dry, the hummus chickpea spread served with it a little bland, but they came on good fresh homestyle white bread.
Tuna steak was a standard piece of fish slightly overcooked, but accompanied by outstanding beer-battered Vidalia onion rings (oh, yes, greasy, but hey, onion rings almost always are) and ratatouille. More satisfying was a chalkboard special of two blue corn tacos filled with substantial strips of slightly spiced London broil and threads of cheese. On the side, mashed black beans with a film of cheese were delicious and the salsa was just crunchy enough. Other dinners were ribs, angel hair pasta with mussels, paella and curried vegetables on coconut rice. Definitely not your usual bar food.
Chef Nancy Cobb is a Virginia Beach native who matches meals to microbrews at three-course beer tastings the second Tuesday of each month. Reservations are required.
Cobb makes the desserts, specializing in a flourless chocolate cake frosted with bittersweet chocolate cream. A ginger pound cake garnished with strawberries and cream was simply elegant. Homemade ice cream was tingly with ginger that night.
Casual and comfortable with dark pubby woods, contempo brushed steel trims, custom light fixtures and swirls of wrought iron, the Taphouse has a neighborly ambiance. Kids are welcome early in the evening; you can get a substantial (and sometimes a splendid) meal; and there's plenty of friendly staff and spirits. Now that microbrews are increasing in popularity, the time is right for a Ghent restaurant that treats both food and specialty beer with enthusiasm, as the Taphouse does. MEMO: Reviews are based on a single, unannounced visit by a party of two
or three, unless otherwise noted. The Virginian-Pilot pays for the
reviewer's meal and those of the guests. ILLUSTRATION: COLOR PHOTOS BY ROY A. BAHLS
ABOVE LEFT: The colorful Paella Norte, or sauteed chicken breast,
and fresh seafood served over turmeric rice.
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BILL OF FARE
Taphouse Grill, 931 W. 21st St., Norfolk, 627-9172.
Cuisine: Eclectic American standards and international offerings,
homemade desserts and an assortment of draft and bottled brews.
Atmosphere: Friendly neighborhood tavern decorated in dark woods
and contemporary touches; small patio.
Prices: Lunches and Sunday brunch $4.95 to $6.95, dinner starters
and sandwiches $2.25 to $7.50, main dishes $8.95 to $14.95, desserts
$2.95 to $3.95. Children's portions on request.
Hours: Monday through Friday 11 a.m. to 2 a.m., Saturday 1 p.m.
to 2 a.m., Sunday brunch noon to 3 p.m., dinner 3 p.m. to 2 a.m.
Full menu until 10 p.m., light menu until midnight.
Reservations: Requested for parties of five or more.
Smoking: Bar and patio only; cigars outdoors only. by CNB