The Virginian-Pilot
                             THE VIRGINIAN-PILOT 
              Copyright (c) 1996, Landmark Communications, Inc.

DATE: Sunday, August 4, 1996                TAG: 9608060522
SECTION: FLAVOR                  PAGE: F1   EDITION: FINAL 
SOURCE: By BETTY DOUGLASS, SPECIAL TO FLAVOR 
                                            LENGTH:   65 lines

FIGURATIVELY SPEAKING FORGET FIG NEWTONS AND THOSE DRIED-UP HOLIDAY TREATS. SUMMER IS THE BEST TIME TO EXPERIENCE THE JOY OF FRESH FIGS.

When we moved to Hampton Roads in 1952, we had a fig tree in our yard. That summer I couldn't wait for the fruit to ripen; I hadn't had fresh figs since my college days in California.

Before college, the only figs I remembered were those in Fig Newtons, and the dried figs served at Christmas.

These days, fresh figs, which are highly perishable, can still be hard to come by in the stores, although they are easier to find in August and September. Many Hampton Roads residents still have the grand, big-leaved trees in their yards and the soft knobs of fruit ripen in abundance this time of year - but only if the tree didn't suffer from last winter's cold.

Local cooks frequently use figs to make preserves, conserves and pickles, but figs may be poached in wine for dessert, cut into tulip shapes and stuffed with ricotta or baked into a cake.

When choosing fresh figs, look for fruit that is as soft and as ripe as possible. ``Sniff fresh figs before buying. A sour odor means the fruit had begun to ferment and spoil,'' says Janet Bailey in her book, ``Keeping Food Fresh'' (Dial Press, 1985).

Avoid bruised figs, but fruit shriveled by the sun will taste especially sweet, according to ``Cooking A to Z'' by the California Culinary Academy.

Ripe figs need to be kept on a paper-towel-lined tray in the coldest part of the refrigerator. Use the figs within a day or two.

For dessert or a special breakfast, try figs peeled, sliced and served with a sprinkle of sugar and a splash of cream. ILLUSTRATION: Color photo

RICHARD L. DUNSTON/The Virginian-Pilot

When choosing fresh figs, look for fruit that is as soft and ripe as

possible. An extra hint: fruit shriveled by the sun will taste

especially sweet.

Graphic

BOILING WATER BATH METHOD OF CANNING

This method for processing canned foods is from ``The Ball Blue

Book, the Guide to Home Canning, Freezing and Dehydration''

(Altrista Corp., 1995).

Food must be processed immediately after packing into hot jars

and adjusting lids and bands. Jar that have been raw packed (foods

in the jar are raw) should be placed into a canner in hot water. If

foods are hot when they are packed, the water in the canner should

be boiling.

When the jars are placed in the canner, the temperature of the

water will decrease. Add boiling water, if necessary, to bring the

water an inch or two over tops of the jars. Do not pour the water

directly onto glass jars, because they may break.

Cover the canner and bring the water to a rolling boil. Start

counting processing time at point the rolling boil begins. Allow the

water to boil gently but steadily for the time required.

Process 1/2 pint jars of preserves or pickles for 10 minutes and

pint jars 15 minutes in a water bath.

Add boiling water, as needed, to keep tops of jars covered.

Remove the containers from the canner immediately when the

processing time is up. Cool with space between each jar on a tray

until completely cool before storing. by CNB