THE VIRGINIAN-PILOT  
              Copyright (c) 1996, Landmark Communications, Inc.

DATE: Sunday, August 18, 1996               TAG: 9608150114
SECTION: FLAVOR                  PAGE: F1   EDITION: FINAL 
SOURCE: BY MARY FLACHSENHAAR, SPECIAL TO FLAVOR 
                                            LENGTH:   45 lines

FISH TOPPINGS EVEN NONFISH EATERS MIGHT BE TEMPTED BY NEW-STYLE GARNISHES, WHICH ENLIVEN WITHOUT ADDING MUCH FAT.

WHAT A CATCH this is.

Our collection of relishes, salsas, chutneys and sauces for garnishing fish is so diverse and delicious, it might just be the bait needed to reel in the nonfish eater.

Those who've never been tempted by fresh tuna may do a turnabout when they try it topped with the hearty Romesco sauce made by chef Amy Brandt at the Lucky Star restaurant in Virginia Beach. Or the delicate strawberry-pepper chutney that is a specialty of Virginia Burton, kitchen manager at Blue Pete's restaurant in Pungo.

These new, chic toppings for fish that's been cooked on the grill, in the oven or on the stovetop have their origin in the Southwestern salsas that became popular a few years back. Some of the toppings rely on original salsa ingredients like tomatoes, peppers, onions and the spices and herbs of Mexican cuisine.

But many are dramatic departures from the Southwestern script. Recipes that call for honeydew, pineapple, strawberries and mint create garnishes that are cool and refreshing. Ingredients like crusty bread, almonds and curry powder yield finished products that are unsalsa-like indeed.

Toppings should work as gentle complements to the fish, says Patrick Galiardi, chef-owner at Sage's restaurant in Virginia Beach. They should enhance, not overwhelm, the fish flavor.

``Using lots of fresh, uncooked or lightly cooked ingredients to top fish is a big improvement over the cream and butter sauces we used in the past,'' said Galiardi, whose salsa for snapper or sea bass is a blend of honeydew, mint, shallots, rice-wine vinegar and olive oil.

The fact that these new-style toppings are generally low in fat is lure enough for some. ILLUSTRATION: COLOR PHOTO ILLUSTRATION BY VICKI CRONIS/The

Virginian-Pilot

FILE COLOR PHOTO

Sauteed onions dress up a salmon steak. Whatever topping you choose,

it should enhance, not overwhelm, the fish. by CNB