The Virginian-Pilot
                             THE VIRGINIAN-PILOT 
              Copyright (c) 1996, Landmark Communications, Inc.

DATE: Friday, September 13, 1996            TAG: 9609130610
SECTION: LOCAL                   PAGE: B2   EDITION: FINAL 
SOURCE: BY NANCY LEWIS, STAFF WRITER 
DATELINE: NORFOLK                           LENGTH:   81 lines

GRANBY ROW CHEERS 2ND YEAR OF NEW IDENTITY

They had a hot time in the old town Thursday night - at least until the rain came.

But even the downpour that arrived halfway through the block party for Granby Row didn't squelch spirits. Out popped the umbrellas, and those without ducked under awnings and overhangs and kept right on partying.

Restaurants, bars and shops along the renovated 100 block of Granby St. were packed to overflowing with socializing socialites, and the camaraderie poured out into the street.

Everyone in the crowd, it seemed, was drinking beer and puffing on fat cigars.

Apparently, the more things change, the more they stay the same.

In its World War II heyday - and for decades after - the block's numerous bars were seedy hangouts for off-duty sailors.

Over the past several years, merchants have spruced up the 19th century brick buildings that line the east side of the block. They've had help from the city, and other nearby areas of the city are also now starting to change their look, in part because of the new Tidewater Community College campus that's soon to open.

Last fall, Granby Row businesses celebrated their accomplishment with an opening night. Thursday's party was an encore.

Ben Willis looked like the cat that swallowed the canary as he stood in front of Mo and O'Malley's Pub, surveying the crowd. He flashed a leprechaun grin, and his Irish blue eyes twinkled mischievously.

``We need more bars in Norfolk,'' said Willis, a 43-year-old businessman who lives in Virginia Beach. ``People need to feel comfortable going out and having a drink. There are too many fuddy duddies.''

He straightened his red paisley bow tie and adjusted the matching handkerchief that jutted from the breast pocket of his white shirt, then said he wished he didn't have to leave for a 7 p.m. business meeting.

Patrick Kilhenny joined Willis and said he planned to catch up with old acquaintances. The 37-year-old Portsmouth neuro-ophthalmologist said he'd ``probably enjoy a good cigar from Emerson's.''

The aroma of cigars wafted from the open front door of Emerson's Fine Tobacco Shop, and inside, folks looked a bit ghostly through the smoke-filled air.

Dwight Chadbourne, who works at Emerson's, stood in the street plying his wares.

``This is the oldest block in Norfolk that's kept its integrity,'' said Chadbourne proudly, gesturing backward and upward.

``I'm trying to get the ladies going on it,'' he said of cigar-smoking. ``It's what people are doing.''

Chadbourne poked the cigar he held between his fingers toward a young woman in the street.

``I convinced her,'' he said.

Debbie Hall, 41, the woman he had pointed out, leaned onto a high, round table midstreet, chatting with several men and puffing on a cigar.

``I decided to join in,'' said Hall, who works at Town Point Club in the World Trade Center. ``I used to try to stop them, but gave up. I finally said, `You blow it at me, I'll blow it at you.' I've met a couple new people because of the cigar.

``They're intrigued, walk up to you. It attracts people like bees. They think it's sexy. You get winks and double looks, and the women are saying, `Hey, that's OK.' ''

Inside Mo and O'Malley's, Norfolk city attorneys Paul Hannaford, 35, and Steve Mirman, 29, laughed heartily and tipped glasses of ale. They had to shout to make themselves heard over an Irish balladeer's mournful croon.

A group of women talked and laughed at another high table in the closed-off street.

``I came because I'm excited about what's happening in downtown Norfolk,'' said Sylvia Hallock, 58, executive director of Habitat for Humanity. ``I want to see this place boom so my property value will go up.'' Hallock owns a condo in the downtown area.

``As I remember, there wasn't a whole lot here,'' said Wanda Burns, 36, looking up and down the street. Now, she said, ``it looks nice.'' ILLUSTRATION: Photo by Gary C. Knapp

When a downpour moved through downtown Norfolk Thursday evening,

Granby Row's second-anniversary partyers moved inside or under

awnings - then returned to the street. In one heyday, the 100 block

was a seedy magnet for carousing. Now, with shops, bars and

galleries, it draws the white-collar and college crowd. by CNB