The Virginian-Pilot
                             THE VIRGINIAN-PILOT 
              Copyright (c) 1996, Landmark Communications, Inc.

DATE: Wednesday, September 18, 1996         TAG: 9609170040
SECTION: FLAVOR                  PAGE: F1   EDITION: FINAL 
COLUMN: Morsels 
SOURCE: Ruth Fantasia 
                                            LENGTH:   46 lines

ONE MORE PAPAYA FOR THE ROAD, BARTENDER

THE HOSTESS showed me to a small booth across from the bar.

My body was in Rutherford, Calif., a little town in the heart of Napa Valley, but I felt like I'd left the rest of me in Norfolk. Jet lag.

As I sat there sipping an iced tea, a man bellied up to the bar.

``The usual?'' asked the bartender.

``Sure,'' said the man.

The bartender grabbed a couple oranges from a basket on the counter and started cutting them while chatting amicably with her customer. She pressed the orange halves in a juicer, extracting all the liquid.

Fresh juice in drinks. Now there's an idea, I thought. Then I thought of the hundreds of screwdrivers I'd made in my bartending days, and the idea of squeezing fresh juice for each one seemed too labor-intensive to be profitable.

A little later, I heard the bartender ask him if he wanted another.

More oranges out of the basket, and in the juicer. She scooped ice into a tall glass and poured the juice on top.

What? No vodka?

``The usual,'' it appeared, was orange juice on the rocks.

A few days after I returned to Virginia, a colleague from San Francisco called.

``Ruth, are juice bars a big thing in Norfolk?'' she asked.

``No, Karola. If you walked into a bar in Virginia and ordered an orange juice, the bartender would take you for a cop checking out ABC violations.''

``Juice bars are very popular out here,'' Karola said.

``And people go to them just to drink juice?''

``Oh, yes. They even have baskets of wheat grass they make juice out of.''

``I haven't seen a basket of wheat grass yet, but it usually takes a few years for those California fads to reach Virginia.''

``Well, now you know what the next rage will be.''

``The juice bars are fine, but, Karola . . . ''

``Yes?''

``Keep the wheat grass.'' ILLUSTRATION: [Color Photo]

FILE PHOTO

Juice bars, all the rage in California, haven't hit here yet. by CNB