THE VIRGINIAN-PILOT
Copyright (c) 1996, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: Sunday, October 6, 1996 TAG: 9610030073
SECTION: FLAVOR PAGE: F1 EDITION: FINAL
SOURCE: By BETTY DOUGLASS, SPECIAL TO FLAVOR
LENGTH: 87 lines
MAYBE IT'S the beard. Or maybe it's because they aren't abundant in the the Chesapeake Bay. Whatever the reason, mussels aren't the biggest sellers in Hampton Roads markets, say grocery managers.
That's a shame because mussels are easy to fix and versatile. In addition, mussels are economical, earning the nickname ``poor man's oyster.''
The bluish black-shelled mussels, which are the kind most often available in local stores, are found mostly along the East Coast and are farmed in New England. Though their flavor is slightly stronger than that of clams, mussels are frequently substituted for their bivalve cousins.
Fresh mussels are usually steamed and can be eaten just out of the shell with drawn butter, or they can be shelled and chilled for use in salads or pasta dishes. Mussels are also frequently used in soups.
Europeans have enjoyed the slightly briny taste of mussels for centuries, says Shirley King in ``Fish: The Basics'' (Chapters, 1996). In paella, for instance, it's common to see their black shells shining against the yellow rice grains.
If you have never cooked mussels, here a few guidelines for purchasing, storing and preparing them from ``The Victory Garden Fish and Vegetable Cookbook'' by Marian Morash (Alfred A. Knopf, 1993): HOW TO BUY
Wild mussels have a special flavor, but farmed mussels are usually cleaner, have thinner shells and more meat.
Mussels are sold in the shell and in containers labeled smoked mussels or mussel meat. Most mussels sold in Hampton Roads are farm-raised, says Dale Faunce, vice president for perishables at Farm Fresh. HOW TO STORE
Refrigerate mussels in mesh or burlap bags or in a container that allows circulation so that they can breathe; they can be stored in a vegetable drawer, covered with a damp towel.
Because mussels open and close and lose juices as they sit, serve as soon as possible after buying. Do not place them in fresh water, where they will die.
Mussel are best cooked within 24 hours of purchase. HOW TO CLEAN
Mussels will open naturally but should close tightly when handled. Discard mussels that do not respond and any with broken shells, and check for ``mudders.''
Mudders are mussels filled with mud instead of meat. They usually feel heavier than the others. To test, hold the bottom shell of the mussel in the fingers of one hand and, with your thumb, slide the top shell off the bottom shell; a live mussel will tighten up, a mudder will open to reveal its contents.
To purge mussels of any sand or mud they may have ingested, mix 3 tablespoons of salt and 1 tablespoon of vinegar with 2 quarts of water, or add 3 tablespoons of cornmeal to 2 quarts of water. Submerge the mussels in the water mixture for at least two hours, changing the water mixture once or twice.
Rinse mussels under cold water and scrub the shells with a stiff brush to remove debris. Use a paring knife to scrape off barnacles. HOW TO DEBEARD
Just so you know, a mussel beard isn't hair. The beard is made of seaweed-like threads the mussels produce to attach their shells to the rocks.
Just before cooking, grasp the beard of the mussel with a knife or your fingers and pull hard to remove it from the shell. Mussels store better with the beard intact, so remove the beard just before cooking. YIELD
Depending on size, use about 20 mussels for a main-course serving. A pound of live mussels equals 15 to 20 mussels; 4 pounds of live mussels will yield about 1 pound of meat. ILLUSTRATION: Color photo
MARTIN SMITH-RODDEN/The Virginian-Pilot
Fresh mussels can be steamed and eaten out of the shell with drawn
butter or used in salads, soups and pasta dishes.
Graphic
VP
HOW TO CLEAN MUSSELS
SOURCE: Ann Willan's Look & Cook: Perfect Pasta - Dorling
Kindersley, 1992.
[For complete graphic, please see microfilm] by CNB