THE VIRGINIAN-PILOT
Copyright (c) 1996, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: Sunday, October 6, 1996 TAG: 9610030212
SECTION: CAROLINA COAST PAGE: 06 EDITION: FINAL
TYPE: Restaurant Review
SOURCE: BY JEWEL BOND, STAFF WRITER
LENGTH: 87 lines
A restaurant called Chilli Peppers is certain to rev your tastebuds for Southwestern fare - torchy tacos, fiery enchailadas and steaming burritos. And though these items do appear on the menu occasionally, Tex-Mex is not the normal bill of fare at Chilli Peppers Gormex in Kill Devil Hills.
The word Gourmex, coined by the owner, signifies his specialty - spicy gourmet food.
When the owner, 34-year-old Jim Douglas, opened the restaurant in August 1992, he set out to offer something unique to Outer Banks diners. He chose to do that with many flavors of peppers.
``A lot of customers think that what we are about is hot spicy foods, but actually what we have,'' says Douglas,'' is globally-influenced foods enhanced by the various pepper flavors.''
Douglas and Head Chef Damon Karauskas work together to create recipes that incorporate a variety of hot and mild spices in dishes that are pleasing, as well as soothing to the tastes of wary non-pepper lovers.
With the mistaken idea of getting tacos and a beer, my husband and I were pleasantly surprised when we experienced some of these creations on a recent visit to the restaurant.
Sipping my Screaming Iguana ($6), my choice having been inspired by the replica of a 6-foot Iguana suspended from the ceiling of the bar, I watched as servers place mounds of food on diners' tables. And the time passed quickly - only 20 minutes. With the efficiency of the staff, there was a fast turnover.
For starters, my husband selected the Thai Pesto Shrimp ($6.25). Five medium shrimp were lightly sauteed in oil and served in a Thai chili pesto sauce with Texas toast strips. The toast strips ensure you don't loose a drop of the sweet and spicy sauce.
My choice, the Chimmi Churry Oyster appetizer ($4.75), was served with toast strips surrounding four lightly-steamed oysters. The clear oyster broth, seasoned with cilantro, garlic and fresh herbs, provided a light and spicy sauce for dipping.
Service was excellent. Water glasses are refilled promptly and entrees are served kitchen-hot.
My order of Chilli Pepper Crab Cakes ($18.95) stirred unfounded concerns of being too spicy. But I've never had better. They were just spicy enough.
The crabmeat contained just enough filler to hold the cakes together. It was fried lightly and served over a bed of coconut rice. The rice, a sweet jasmine rice, is cooked with coconut milk and only a subtle hint of coconut is detectable.
The Oven Roasted Free Range Chicken ($16.95) was served over a sweet potato souffle with French green beans. The sweet souffle complemented the entree, but my husband would have preferred American-style green beans. He was so pleased with the first bite of chicken that he said he looked forward to eating here again. The chicken had been roasted crisp outside but was still moist and tender.
The menu is revised about every two months to offer new entrees of pork, seafood and beef. Linguine with alfredo sauce ($5.25) is the only children's fare, but side orders of fries and fresh vegetables are available.
Bread is not served with entrees but an order of Texas toast is available upon request.
It's not easy to pass up desserts so we decided to share an ice cream. Though other desserts are offered, the Chilli Peppers ice cream ($3.25) is made on site and definitely worth a try. The ice creams are rich, creamy and flavorful. And the chef changes the flavors with the seasonal fruits.
I am now convinced, peppers can enhance any foods, including desserts. Chilli Peppers makes a Habanero and Bing Cherry ice cream that has become a pepper-lover's favorite.
``When dealing with peppers,'' says Douglas, ``the ideas are endless. ILLUSTRATION: Staff photo by DREW C. WILSON
Jim Douglas, 34, who opened Chilli Peppers Gourmex restaurant in
August 1992, offers something unique to Outer Banks diners by using
the many flavors of peppers.
CHILLI PEPPERS
Where: Milepost 5 1/2 on the Bypass, Kill Devil Hills
Phone: 441-8081
Features: Seafood, chicken, beef, vegetarian dishes
Prices: Dinner entrees range from $10.95 to $18.95
Hours: Lunch, 11:30 a.m. to 5 p.m.; steamed seafood, 11 a.m. to 2
p.m.; dinner, 5 to 11 p.m.
Drinks: Full service bar, wine, beer, soda, coffee and tea.
Payment: VISA, MasterCard, American Express, Discover
Reservations: No
Smoking: Yes
Handicapped accessible: Yes, ramp from parking lot to deck
outside door, double-door opening, single-story restaurant. by CNB