THE VIRGINIAN-PILOT 
              Copyright (c) 1996, Landmark Communications, Inc.

DATE: Wednesday, October 9, 1996            TAG: 9610080046
SECTION: FLAVOR                  PAGE: F2   EDITION: FINAL 
SOURCE: By BETTY DOUGLASS, SPECIAL TO FLAVOR 
                                            LENGTH:   40 lines

USE PLANTAINS DIFFERENTLY AT VARIOUS STAGES OF RIPENESS

PLANTAINS, also called vegetable-bananas or cooking bananas, because they must be cooked before eating, are common in Latin America and the Caribbean.

Bruce Beck, is his book ``Produce: A Fruit and Vegetable Lover's Guide'' (Friendly Press, 1984) says plantains ``share the distinctive flavor and aroma of bananas, but never develops sweetness for eating as a fruit.''

Plantains are as common in the Southern Hemisphere as potatoes are in America, often used as a starch or main dish. They are fried, baked, made into dumplings and fritters, or simmered with garlic and served with a sauce. The plantain is unique in that it is served in many stages of ripeness, each having a distinct flavor and use.

Plantains are available throughout the year in speciality produce counters in area supermarkets.

They are usually shipped green but will ripen at room temperature. You will want to purchase those best suited to your recipe. Some cooks suggest purchasing plantains green and ripening them to the stage you desire.

When green, plantains are firm and starchy with a bland flavor. A half ripe plantain is yellow and has a flavor similar to sweet potatoes. The fully ripe plantain is black with a flavor more like the banana. If you purchase green plantain, they will turn yellow-brown within a week and black within the second week.

Store green plantains at room temperature to ripen, then wrap them in plastic wrap and store in the refrigerator for up to three days.

Ripe plantains are easy to peel, but unripe ones are more difficult. Try cutting a lengthwise incision in a green plantain, then about three cuts around the fruit. Peel back the skin with your fingers. To avoid staining your hands, do this under cold running water. Be sure to remove the bitter strings that run the length of the flesh. ILLUSTRATION: FILE PHOTO

Plantains can be fried, baked, made into dumplings and fritters, or

served with a sauce. by CNB