THE VIRGINIAN-PILOT
Copyright (c) 1996, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: Sunday, October 20, 1996 TAG: 9610240052
SECTION: CAROLINA COAST PAGE: 8 EDITION: FINAL
TYPE: RESTAURANT REVIEW
SOURCE: BY MARY ELLEN RIDDLE, CORRESPONDENT
LENGTH: 97 lines
WITH THE WIND blowing a gale and rains only just beginning to recede, the warmly lighted interior of Chardo's Restaurant immediately perked our spirits as my companion and I entered the 10-year-old establishment.
My mouth started watering after spying a table with trays of covered bread. Mikki Styons, our busy but efficient waitress, offered us two slices each.
I had trouble deciding between the four flavors - sunflower, multi-grain, Italian and sourdough - so I sampled several throughout the course of dinner. The Italian was soft and chewy - my favorite.
Mikki suggested we dip the bread in the seasoned olive oil that is stored in tall, clear bottles and placed at each table. My companion liked it, I preferred butter.
Not being big eaters, we passed on the salad, but we were curious about the marinated mushrooms appetizer ($3.95). The plate came filled with 20 mushrooms tossed with thin slices of garlic. My companion wasn't keen on them because they were cold. The flavor, particularly the garlic, kept me sneaking more long after I had had my fill.
For the entree, I took a chance and ordered the shrimp scampi ($13.95). I've had plenty of greasy, garlic-choked scampi over the years. I'm glad I gave it one last shot. At least seven good-size shrimp lay on a bed of perfectly cooked angel hair pasta. (That is just right for fork-twirling. That's half the fun.) The shrimp - sauteed in garlic, butter, lemon and wine - tasted fresh.
My companion, whom I consider a chicken expert because he ALWAYS orders a chicken dish, chose chicken fillet tuscano ($14.95).
We roared with laughter over the extraordinary size of the accompanying grilled vegetables. It looked as if the chef had poured Miracle Grow on the usual medley of zucchini, yellow squash, eggplant, mushroom, tomato and onions.
My companion gave the eggplant rave reviews but left the squash. I thought about stealing it off his plate because it looked so delicious, but I was too shy.
Since I don't eat chicken, I relied on the ``chicken expert's'' opinion. In a word, he said, ``succulent.''
Dinner guests streamed past our table during the hour-and-a-half we dined. Later, general manager Ron Chinappi told us the restaurant not only had a main dining room but also four smaller rooms plus the ever-popular gazebo. The noise level, despite having no background music, was not intrusive.
While we didn't order the customary wine that complements any Italian fare, glasses filled with red wine were raised and toasted a short distance from us.
Low lighting at the table and partial overhead lighting created an intimate atmosphere, but we could still see our attractively arranged food.
This included a hazelnut tort ($3.95) and lemon pound cake ($3.95) for dessert. My companion cleaned his plate. And my generous slice of lemon pound cake offered the perfect contrast to the seafood entree.
Italian food lovers may want to check into the Italian cooking classes offered by Chinappi's father, Richard.
Four sessions are offered in the off-season. A first-generation Italian whose family hails from Gaeta, Italy, Richard grew up dining on true Italian fare.
Ron, who was filling in for the usual chef, Tim Virzi, the night we dined there, did a dynamite job himself.
``My father taught me everything I know, which is quite a lot,'' he said. If Ron is just the sub, I can't imagine what mouth-watering delights Virzi concocts on a regular basis.
Chardo's filet mignon sherry mushroom sauce received a thumbs up from Gourmet Magazine in 1994, and their sweet vinigarette dressing was recognized by the magazine in 1993.
But truly, there's only one way to find out. ILLUSTRATION: Photo by Mary Ellen Riddle
Chardo's has a main dining room, four smaller rooms plus the
ever-popular gazebo for dining. The restaurant's general manager Ron
Chinappi, who did the cooking the evening The Coast reviewer dined
there learned cooking from his father Richard.
Graphic
CHARDO'S
Where: Milepost 9 on the Bypass, Kill Devil Hills
Phone: 441-0276
Features: Pasta, seafood and steaks
Prices: Dinner entrees range from $9.95 to $23.95. A buffet
Sunday through Thursday is $7.95.
Hours: Off-season dinner hours are 4:30 to 9:30 p.m., extended to
10 p.m. on weekends. In mid-November, closing is at 9 p.m. In-season
hours are 4:30 to 10 p.m. Monday through Thursday, extended to 10:30
p.m. on weekends.
Drinks: Full-service bar, wine, beer, soda, coffee, tea, milk.
Payment: VISA, MasterCard, American Express, Diner's Club,
Discover.
Reservations: Yes
Smoking: Yes
Handicap Accessible: Yes, ramp from parking lot up side of
building to single-door opening. Handicapped parking. by CNB