THE VIRGINIAN-PILOT
Copyright (c) 1996, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: Sunday, October 27, 1996 TAG: 9610250241
SECTION: CAROLINA COAST PAGE: 08 EDITION: FINAL
TYPE: RESTAURANT REVIEW
SOURCE: BY PAUL SOUTH, STAFF WRITER
DATELINE: KILL DEVIL HILLS LENGTH: 71 lines
SOME FOLKS who do the daily grind in the workday world need a casual place that's fast, friendly, and dependable when it comes to food - and at a reasonable price.
The Fish Market Restaurant meets those qualifications.
We hit the Fish Market well after the noon rush, but there was still a good crowd of locals, along with a sprinkling of tourists in the place. A television set above the bar carried a placard with a small admonition: ``No Basketball, Football or Baseball During Winston Cup Events.''
Fortunately, we didn't face the dilemma of choosing between the World Series and stock car racing. But with a wide menu, we did have a tough time making a lunchtime selection.
One of the must-have items on the Fish Market menu is the clam chowder ($2.95). Unlike most restaurants here that feature Hatteras-style chowder, the Fish Market variety is more like the creamy, milk-based New England style.
The soup was brought steaming to the table, and was filled with large, tender clams.
Along with the chowder, we chose the cheeseburger and fries ($4.15). Granted, it's hard to mess up a cheeseburger, but The Fish Market's burger was large and tasty, and served with all the trimmings - lettuce, tomato and onions - to make it a true cheeseburger in paradise.
The platter included a plentiful portion of fries, that were flavorful and not greasy. There were so many, we couldn't finish.
The Fish Market features daily lunch specials, at $3.95 and $4.95.
Those specials change daily, but on previous visits we've had the pork tenderloin and vegetables, and chicken and dumplings.
Those dishes were just like grandma used to make.
We skipped dessert, but in the past we've tried the Key Lime Pie and the Chocolate French Silk Pie. Both were excellent.
Rande and Pam Banks have owned the Fish Market since 1979.
Rande Banks said that while they cater to locals, they try to make visitors feel at home.
``We want the local business, because they're our bread and butter,'' Banks said. ``But while we want to keep the locals happy, we want to give the tourists a good meal and friendly service.
``We like to think of it as a `Southern Renaissance' kind of cooking.''
The Fish Market's chef, Minnie Spencer, has home cooking down to a science, Banks said.
``My favorites are a lot of the lunch specials,'' Banks said. ``I love our shrimp scampi and the grilled mahi. But Minnie does a wonderful job, cooking food like you'd get at home.'' ILLUSTRATION: Staff photo by DREW C. WILSON
Rande Banks is co-owner of The Fish Market Restaurant where
customers can obtain that mythical cheeseburger in paradise.
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THE FISH MARKET
Where: Milepost 9 1/2, U.S. 158 in Kill Devil Hills
Phone: 441-7889
Features: Seafood, sandwiches, daily lunch specials
Hours: 11:30 a.m. until . . . All menu items available any time
Drinks: Full service bar, soda, coffee, tea, milk.
Payment: Visa, MasterCard, cash, local checks.
Reservations: Not required
Smoking: Yes
Handicap accessible: Yes. Ramps on either side of the front
entrance. Handicapped parking available. by CNB